Rust Stains : Long-term solutions

[rideforever]

I had my house painted about 7 years ago and about 2 years ago a myriad of rust stains appeared. The paintwork itself looks flawless not a single crack or flake anywhere, it was an expensive job with Dulux paints.

Next year I will do it again but I would like a long term fix for the rust stains, 15+ years hopefully, otherwise it's wasted money.

What are the options ? I could put a couple of coats on Zinsser on the rust areas - will that be enough for 15 years ? Or maybe I should put a couple of coats of hammerite and then a couple of coats of Zinsser ? Hammerite has a 5 year guarantee ?

What is the optimum ? Removing all the 20 or so metal pieces is a bit beyond me, but many coats of paint is not.

Any advice would be appreciated. It's a Victorian house, completely white at the front.

Cheers

 

[opps]

Where are the rust stains?

In the pebble dash? if yes then it might be better to try and remove the errant iron particles that ended up in the dash. Given that the rust stains go downwards, it should be fairly trivial.

Zinsser Bin might suffice but my concern is that you will be applying ti to the existing Dulux paint rather than the iron directly.

If however you are talking about stains on the edges of masonry window sills, then things get trickier. It might suggest that someone has used galvanised edge beading that a previous decorator has sanded sufficiently to compromise the rust free galvanised finish.

Apologies for the vague answers, if you provide more info, and pictures you might get a definitive answer.

 

[rideforever]

It's painted brick, not pebbledash.
On the wooden boards around the gable and behind the gutters are various spots, I assume from metal screws that forms the structure.
On the brick itself are a few peg like things, like they were pegged into the brickwork, they are also rusting.

 

[opps]

Thanks for the update.

I am surprised that the timber fascia boards are showing signs of rust where there are fixings. Off hand, I can't recall coming across that problem. Were they painted with oil based paints?

I am less surprised about the pegs in the brickwork rusting. Oil based undercoat will probably suffice.

Alternatively, you could lightly sand them (to remove the rust/paint) and give them a coat of Owatrol oil. Unfortunately it isn't cheap, that said, it is a brilliant additive for oil based paints (it helps the paint to flow without thinning it).

 

[londonpainter098]

Hi Rideforever, we have a similar problem. What did you do in the end and did it work? Any tips/advice?? Many thanks

 

[rideforever]

Yes, I do. I was painting the front of the house, Victorian white painted brick.

Brickwork
Using minitool (£30 ebay) or pliers cut out any metal pegs in the bricks, all filling done with Tout pret exterior which is quite dark and needs extra top coats + on top of that sprayed Zinsser BIN spot primer just in case.
Dulux Weathershield Masonry

Metal That Will Remain
Victorian castiron corner drain hopper, sanded and prepped with Kurust (watch it - stains everything dark blue underneath and doesn't come off)
Dulux Weathershield Masonry

Wood
Any screws that will remain are sanded, then bit of metal spray Hammerite to seal, + spot prime Zinsser BIN spray over area
60 / 120 / 180 / 240 Sanding + Wood filler
Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3
Dulux Wood Primer Undercoat
Dulux Weathershield Satinwood

Note
Zinsser Coverstain takes time to dry and is oil based, whereas the other paints are water based, so unless you have time to let it dry and cure, at least a week in the hot summer, winter longer
Zinsser BIN is ideal however on exterior is recommended to only spot prime and not cover everything in it, so I did that putting 2 or 3 coats over all previous rust spots
Zinsser Bullseye (water based rust primer) is unreliable but put a coat on the woodwork, because why not
Generally whilst you are doing it it is good to utilise multiple types of rust prevention because impossible to know what will work, a tin of paint or spray is £10-£20
Using sprays for spot prime (Zinsser BIN, Hammerite) makes the job a breeze, dries fast can do multiple coats whilst you are at it
Owatroil oil cut into the paint faills in 12 months on the neighbours' house

Did it work ? Hell yes looks perfect. Neighbours jobs are all showing rust.

 

[rideforever]

Hi Rideforever, we have a similar problem. What did you do in the end and did it work? Any tips/advice?? Many thanks

 

[opps]

Owatroil oil cut into the paint faills in 12 months on the neighbours' house

?

I use Owatrol oil a lot (with oil based paints) and have never had paint fail because of it.

When I recommended Owatrol , I was suggesting using it neat on rusted metal rather than as a paint additive.

And I note that you used waterbased wood finishes. Owatrol oil, as an additive is only for oil based paints.

 

[rideforever]

?
I use Owatrol oil a lot (with oil based paints) and have never had paint fail because of it.
When I recommended Owatrol , I was suggesting using it neat on rusted metal rather than as a paint additive.
And I note that you used waterbased wood finishes. Owatrol oil, as an additive is only for oil based paints.

All I know is that my neighbour with identical house cut his paint with Owatrol and it's rusted back up a charm, hence I excluded it from my plan.
Recently I had a failure of water based paint over oil based, and contacted some manufacturers about it ... and the answer seems to be that the cure time for total safety on some oil-based paints might actually be 3 weeks, so I excluded them. Time will tell but I chose to use multiple fast drying solutions in order to give myself a well covered solution - and remove all the metal from the wall if poss.

 

[opps]

All I know is that my neighbour with identical house cut his paint with Owatrol and it's rusted back up a charm, hence I excluded it from my plan.
Recently I had a failure of water based paint over oil based, and contacted some manufacturers about it ... and the answer seems to be that the cure time for total safety on some oil-based paints might actually be 3 weeks, so I excluded them. Time will tell but I chose to use multiple fast drying solutions in order to give myself a well covered solution - and remove all the metal from the wall if poss.

Sorry, I don't understand how rust will penetrate through oil based paints (assuming that the substrate isn't soaking wet).

I do not want to seem combative... but.. you are suggesting that a product that has a track record of working well failed on your neighbour's house? In what way did it fail? Typically one would only add about Owatrol at a ratio of of 5% to 95%.

I paint "things" for a living. I want my work to last for as long as possible. If an additive that I use causes paints to fail prematurely I would stop using them immediately.

At the risk of seeming slightly combative- you mention that you used Dulux Weathershield masonry on your cast iron work...

 

[rideforever]

At the risk of seeming slightly combative- you mention that you used Dulux Weathershield masonry on your cast iron work...

Sorry I don't have any further details on what my neighbour did exactly.
Weathershield looks good on the cast iron, which was mostly painted anyway just has some rust areas that were sanded and Kurusted first.