NEST 3rd Gen Learning Thermometer - 240v Issue

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After cancelling my NEST 3rd Gen Thermostat order on NEST Website due to the 6 week delivery, I had one delivered today from 'Tool Station', which came with a with free 'Google Home Mini'.

What it did not come with was a power adapter!

All the unboxing videos, show a white 3-pin power adapter and white USB cable.

Mine has none of these!

Is this the way it is now?
 
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I'm afraid so. The original versions did come with a separate power supply, but many Thermostats are wired into the Heat link directly, so don't use it anyway. Not supplying them saves materials, and makes a bit more money for Nest too.

Capture.JPG


That's all you get now.
 
Thanks for the clarification Stem.

Oh well, if it is surplus to requirements then fair do I suppose.

Now just need to know how to wire up the NEST 3rg Generation Thermometer/Heatlink.

I currently have a 'Danfoss FP715' programmer, with:
  • Live
  • Neutral
  • Earth
  • Terminal 1 - DHW Off
  • Terminal 2 - N/A
  • Terminal 3 - DHW On
  • Terminal 4 - HTG On
New Info Panel.jpg

Room Thermostat End:
  • Live
  • Neutral
  • Switched Live
  • Earth
 
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The wires from the existing thermostat are moved to the Heat link terminals that have the same function, thus:
  • Live.....Heat link (L)
  • Neutral.....Heat link (N)
  • Earth......Heat link (Earth)
  • Terminal 1 - DHW Off.....Heat link (4) DHW Satisfied
  • Terminal 2 - N/A
  • Terminal 3 - DHW On..... Heat link (6) DHW Call for Heat
  • Terminal 4 - HTG On.....Heat link (3) HTG Call for Heat
The two Heat link 'Common' terminals (2) and (5) need to be connected to the (L) terminal

Room Thermostat End:
  • Live
  • Neutral
  • Switched Live
  • Earth

Trace the cable back to its origin. I can't tell you where that will be as that depends on where the original installer thought best to wire it in. Usually (but not always) it's a wiring centre near the motorised valves, but it could be connected to other places. Once you have found the other end and positively identified it, preferably by testing with a multimeter, then:

1) Note where the 'Live' and 'Switched Live' wires are connected
2) Disconnect all 4 wires and remove the cable, make sure other wires in the same terminals are not disturbed
3) Insert a wire link between the terminals that you have just removed the 'Live' and 'Switched Live' wires from so that they are electrically connected
4) If you wish, and it is convenient, you can extend use the disconnected cable to power the thermostat by connecting it T1 & T2 at the Heat link. Otherwise run a new wire [or purchase a separate plug in power supply :whistle:]
 
Thanks for that useful insight Dan.

But, I thought this forum was so DIY folk could get great advice from extremely knowledgeable and helpful members.

Sometimes the help provided here is a lot clearer than the damn instructions.

If you don't like that, then why even bother responding at all?

Just move on!
 
The wires from the existing thermostat are moved to the Heat link terminals that have the same function, thus:
  • Live.....Heat link (L)
  • Neutral.....Heat link (N)
  • Earth......Heat link (Earth)
  • Terminal 1 - DHW Off.....Heat link (4) DHW Satisfied
  • Terminal 2 - N/A
  • Terminal 3 - DHW On..... Heat link (6) DHW Call for Heat
  • Terminal 4 - HTG On.....Heat link (3) HTG Call for Heat
The two Heat link 'Common' terminals (2) and (5) need to be connected to the (L) terminal

Trace the cable back to its origin. I can't tell you where that will be as that depends on where the original installer thought best to wire it in. Usually (but not always) it's a wiring centre near the motorised valves, but it could be connected to other places. Once you have found the other end and positively identified it, preferably by testing with a multimeter, then:

1) Note where the 'Live' and 'Switched Live' wires are connected
2) Disconnect all 4 wires and remove the cable, make sure other wires in the same terminals are not disturbed
3) Insert a wire link between the terminals that you have just removed the 'Live' and 'Switched Live' wires from so that they are electrically connected
4) If you wish, and it is convenient, you can extend use the disconnected cable to power the thermostat by connecting it T1 & T2 at the Heat link. Otherwise run a new wire [or purchase a separate plug in power supply :whistle:]

Thanks for that Stem.

I will give this a go over the weekend.

It is very much appreciated.
 
Thanks for that Stem.

I will give this a go over the weekend.

It is very much appreciated.

Because there is hardly ever a situation that hasn't been covered here before.and the forum pages are riddled with the same sodding questions it can remove the interest of the pros in helping.

Simples.
 
Because there is hardly ever a situation that hasn't been covered here before.and the forum pages are riddled with the same sodding questions it can remove the interest of the pros in helping.

Simples.
I checked and couldn't find my exact situation.

I even looked on good ol' YT before I came here so not to ask without good reason and nothing was my exact situation as I could see.

The member, STEM on the other hand, explained it perfectly and I now understand what I need to do.

Also, I won't be alone is saying that the advice from the Pros is second to none on DIYNOT and I personally appreciate the time and effort members take in answering my 'sodding questions'.
 
The instructions that come with the Nest are designed for use by a professional, as the opening sentence explains:

Capture.JPG


So, they are fairly general, but sufficient for a professional to be able to understand the concept and work for themselves how it applies to the installation in hand. So, for example there's no information about how to remove an existing room thermostat as a professional would already know this.

Dan is right though, most situations have been covered before; including your combination of FP715 and Nest 3. Although in this example, the OP never came back and said how they got on, even after someone specifically asked.
 
The instructions that come with the Nest are designed for use by a professional, as the opening sentence explains:
The thing is, I was going to get it professionally installed!

I'd ordered it direct from NEST with installation included (installation was on special offer @ £10).

But the useless sods couldn't fulfill orders for over six weeks.

As I wanted it before Xmas, I ended up cancelling the order from NEST and purchased it from 'TOOLSTATION', who actually had the SS version in stock.

Downside was that it did not come with installation but did come with a 'Google Home Mini' (for £199.99), which, all-in was cheaper than the no-install NEST on the NEST website.:?:

Ordered from 'TOOLSTATION' at 18:12 on December 12th and it was delivered @ 13:00 on December 13th! That's what I call service!

Still not a s good as the recent BF deals (which caused the shortage at NEST), but I found it a good deal nevertheless.

I would have got a local heating engineer to do it, but its hard to one at short notice round my area......and that is why I'm here asking for advice.

So my apologies if that annoys the p!55 out of some members.

Thanks for all the valuable advice given and greetings to you all for the festive season.
 
The original thermostats did come with the usb cable and plug in the box but nest changed that 6/12 months ago.

They took it out of the thermostat box and now include the power adapter and plug in the box when you purchase the nest stand
 
Sorry, it wasn't meant to be personal, I was just trying to explain why the Nest instructions don't give enough info for DIY.

If someone is competent, personally I wouldn't suggest that you should get a professional in, if that was the case, I would have said so, instead of giving advice on how to do it. Anyway, you seem to have a grasp of what to do, so hope it goes OK.
 
The thing is, I was going to get it professionally installed!

I'd ordered it direct from NEST with installation included (installation was on special offer @ £10).

But the useless sods couldn't fulfill orders for over six weeks.

As I wanted it before Xmas, I ended up cancelling the order from NEST and purchased it from 'TOOLSTATION', who actually had the SS version in stock.

Downside was that it did not come with installation but did come with a 'Google Home Mini' (for £199.99), which, all-in was cheaper than the no-install NEST on the NEST website.:?:

Ordered from 'TOOLSTATION' at 18:12 on December 12th and it was delivered @ 13:00 on December 13th! That's what I call service!

Still not a s good as the recent BF deals (which caused the shortage at NEST), but I found it a good deal nevertheless.

I would have got a local heating engineer to do it, but its hard to one at short notice round my area......and that is why I'm here asking for advice.

So my apologies if that annoys the p!55 out of some members.

Thanks for all the valuable advice given and greetings to you all for the festive season.


And what kind of quality did you expect from a £10 install? When Nest first launched I did very well of if the muppets who carried out the 20 minute youtube video that made them Nest professionals, yet managed to blow expensive boiler PCBs.

If a local engineer is hard to find, then chances are he's half decent You'll be waiting until February to see me unless you are a regular with an emergency.

And why is it essential to get a shiny new switch before Christmas? Will hell freeze over or something?
 

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