Attached garage- options?

[23vc]

Another rather entertaining thread has got me thinking about the attached garage I need to build next year. Footings (mass fill, not a raft) already poured but nothing else done yet.
The only real brickwork I’ve ever done has been cavity, which I’m pretty confident at doing now, so tempted to go either cavity or double skin with brick outside, block inner.
Other option is single skin with piers, but I reckon that’d be harder as I’d have to get a decent facework on both sides, which when you get higher up could be tricky.
Anyway, any other pros/cons of each? Leaning towards cavity with full fill dri therm, just to take the edge off it in the winter.
I’ve also got ground level about 600mm above inside floor level on one side so will have to do the dpm lap thing up the outer skin...I think

 

[noseall]

double skin with brick outside, block inner

That's what we are building presently.

 

[23vc]

I may well do it that way. Do you use ties?

 

[Leofric]

You use stainless steel wall ties for double skin brick outer,block inner skin walls. If you are likely to want to build over the garage in the future cavity wall construction would be better if you have the space.

 

[23vc]

Ta. Definitely won’t ever get built on top of, it’ll have a trussed roof.

 

[Notch7]

That's what we are building presently.

With a 50mm cavity, or do you just stick with 100mm?

 

[Leofric]

Having a trussed roof doesn't stop people building up another storey. You can turn a bungalow with a pitched roof into a two storey house, subject to planning permission obviously.

 

[noseall]

With a 50mm cavity, or do you just stick with 100mm?

No cavity, solid wall.

 

[23vc]

Having a trussed roof doesn't stop people building up another storey. You can turn a bungalow with a pitched roof into a two storey house, subject to planning permission obviously.

Yeah, I should have said there’s no way I would ever build on top of it

 

[garyo]

I'm about to do the same as you 23, with a 100mm full fill cavity. Although it won't be heated the existing attached garage already robs a surprising amount of heat from the house on two sides, so the more you keep in the warmer it'll be.

I'm going to have a think about the blocks I choose so that they'll take a simple coat of white paint to keep light levels up. The garage on my previous house had chunky concrete blocks that were virtually unpaintable due to the cavities all over them.

 

[23vc]

Yep, I’ll probably use thermalites but then they’re cr@p to fix to.
What are you doing for your ceiling then, loft roll at ceiling level and plasterboard it?

 

[garyo]

I've not got as far as looking at the regs for what I need to do to protect the bedroom above, but I expect I'll probably need to achieve the equivalent of 270mm of rock wool. I'm a bit tight on head height so might end up using a combination of 50mm PIR over the joists and then 150mm Rock wool between.

I'm not starting until Dec 2019 so I'd be interested to see what spec you end up with re fire and insulation.

 

[noseall]

I'm going to have a think about the blocks I choose

7n Fibolites.

 

[23vc]

I've not got as far as looking at the regs for what I need to do to protect the bedroom above, but I expect I'll probably need to achieve the equivalent of 270mm of rock wool. I'm a bit tight on head height so might end up using a combination of 50mm PIR over the joists and then 150mm Rock wool between.

I'm not starting until Dec 2019 so I'd be interested to see what spec you end up with re fire and insulation.

Mines not got a room above, it’s got a trussed roof. But what you’ve said (50mm PIR, fireline boards, 150mm loft roll) is exactly what I’ve done before when there was a bedroom above, so I suspect you’re on the right lines.