Is it safe to drive with the coolant light on if the temperature gauge is in the safety zone ?

thank you Lower..

I have refilled the coolant bottle about 5 times but each time after a few miles the bottle is empty again..

I sealed the leak of the coolant pipe with proper sealant from car shop. The old pipe was not even leaking it just looked corroded and rusty which I found out its just surface rust and common on these engines on those pipes. I didn't even need change pipe in first place.

there seems to be so leaking for that pipe, everything seems dry and if it was leaking Id see it under the car ( no under trary fitted ) also it only seems happen under load not idling. at idle the level in the bottle seems steady and doesn't reduce.

I am consideirng if the hg has gone, to fix it myself. I would take my time with it and buy a cheap run around car to get me back and forth while fixing this one.

If the head gasket has gone (check the filler cap, may have brown creamy gunk on it, which is an oil/coolant emulsion)

The the gasket has probably failed due to the cylinder head itself being warped, so probably not a head gasket change.

Also, you could put some drain indicator dye in the coolant and use a UV torch which might show where the leak is. From what you've said though it's pouring out so of there's no puddles on the floor then it's going into the engine.
 
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If the head gasket has gone (check the filler cap, may have brown creamy gunk on it, which is an oil/coolant emulsion)

The the gasket has probably failed due to the cylinder head itself being warped, so probably not a head gasket change.

Also, you could put some drain indicator dye in the coolant and use a UV torch which might show where the leak is. From what you've said though it's pouring out so of there's no puddles on the floor then it's going into the engine.

Thanks for that information.

If the cylinder head is warped why don't it be a head gasket change ?
I was thinking head skim and new gasket set, thinking of buying s cheap used car as a runs a bout until I get this fixed.
Thinking of going it myself as a complete beginner and having a temporary car to go back and forth until then
Cheers
 
If the head gasket has blown due to heat then there’s a very high chance that the cylinder head has warped and will need skimming flat before reassembling with a new gasket and possibly new bolts - if they are the stretch variety.
Please be aware, not all engines have a head that is skimmable but I can’t comment on the Vectra.
John :)
 
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If the head gasket has blown due to heat then there’s a very high chance that the cylinder head has warped and will need skimming flat before reassembling with a new gasket and possibly new bolts - if they are the stretch variety.
Please be aware, not all engines have a head that is skimmable but I can’t comment on the Vectra.
John :)

Hi John
Yes I would get it machined and if I got a garage to do the work I'd have to trust they took it to a machine shop .
I had a quick visit to machine shop today and the guy thinks it's air lock especially since the radiator hoses are soft and not hard. I have been adding about a litre of water about every 10 minutes, so if it's just an air lock how is it containing all this water that I've been topping it up with ?

Thanks
 
I think this is either some kind of air lock or hopefully not but the HG failure
How on earth can this be just an airlock issue if you are putting in a litre of water every 10 mins, where do you think the water is going? Into some form of Vauxhall (sorry Fiat) engine Tardis?
 
Kwik Fit?

I am considering buying a cheap used runabout car and fix this in my own time doing it slowly. I've never done anything major on a car I'm a beginner diyer of 2 years but successfully carried out all my work.

I could take it as slowly as I like if I have another car to use.
I was worried about the timing belt part of it but I watched a video on YouTube and it looks easy enough , aligning the cam and crank in time the fuel pump not timed on these.
Turn engine over on crank to ensure they both still line up, then a second time to be sure.

I will further get this checked though and if the head gasket is confirmed as the fault I'm feeling confident to do it
 
If you decide to bash on, do a bit of research......is there a machine shop close by? Even if a skim isn't necessary the flatness of the face will need to be checked.
You'll also need a good torque wrench and also an angle torque gauge if required.
Here's where the fun starts...... If the injectors need to be removed (more than likely) they may need specialist intervention - other guys on here will know.
Please think long and hard about this one!
John :)
 
Temperature sensors are fitted in the head, in a water passage, so they only read coolant temperature. As an engine overheats and coolant is lost, first the gauge will rise briefly and rapidly, then it will fall back into the safe zone, by which time it is too late -damage will have been done if the driver has failed to notice the initial rise.

Low coolant warning lights are sometimes a better option than temperature gauges, but only if a driver takes notice of them and does something about the issue.
 
when I drove my car home this morning the 3 miles although it was leaking water it was still showed cold on the thermostat gauge so I assume it didnt overheat ? is this correct ?

No, your temperature gauge only display the coolant temperature when there is proper level of coolant in the system. If there is no coolant around the sensor, the engine may well already be over heating and have suffered damage - It is only a COOLANT TEMPERATURE DISPLAY - not an engine temperature display.
 
I'm taking bets about how many pages this thread will clock...

And how many forums he asked this same question on. I have seen him on at least one other forum asking the same question.
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I shout TROLL.
 
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