British gas WR1 plus Honeywell into Hive

[iman999]

Hi guys,

Got roped into sorting my mums heating out, she had an old battery british gas thermostat on the wall and a WR1 in the airing cupboard communicating with it and a Honeywell panel controlling the hot water which was permanently switched to on. Below are the pics of how it was wired (first 2) and the last is how i wired it (only difference is the taped black wire with the brown sleeve is currently in 2 as according to Hive it should not be empty)

The heating is working perfectly in tests as ambient is above its requested temp so not required yet, here is the weird thing. When I press boost on water it clicks in the airing cupboard but the boiler doesn't come on (boost on heating boiler does come on). I did this friday and mum has used lots of hot water and no issues but I cant help feeling something's not right (prob with my wiring!). I assume 2 (Heating off (NC) ) is not needed? Does the Hive just turn the boiler on and off regardless then just operate a remote valve? I thought maybe the remote vale for hot water is stuck open hence why there is hot water but the heatings not been on so that cant be right!

Any advice gratefully received!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Ok, assuming you have the correct Hive (dual channel), remove the grey wire in the Hive from terminal 1 and see if the hot water fires up. Is that the wiring center next to the receiver?

 

[iman999]

Thanks for the reply Chris, I am going to Mum's soon so will try that and report back. Yes on the right is a Honeywell box with a spaghetti junction of wires in it! I was hoping to leave it be thinking the 2x other boxes should have all the wires I need already. Leave the other wire in T2?

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Leave the other wire in T2?

You don’t have anything in T2, just remove T1 for now and see if hot water fires up. Then we can take it from there

 

[iman999]

I do the taped up wire is in it, i didn't have a photo of how i left it, its the wire that was originally in T3. When i get there i will show you a photo

 

[Deleted member 267285]

No need, leave 3 and 4 as they are and remove anything in T1 and T2, try hot water first. Heating might not work, but if you have a connector block or the old back plate should be a workaround

 

[iman999]

Had it a bit wrong this is how it ended up

 

[iman999]

Running it like this it clicks in the airing cupboard when I boost hot water or heating but the boiler does not fire up

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Is it definitely a dual channel Hive? Also, where is the live and neutral from the original Honeywell ST699?

 

[iman999]

Sorry for all the messages! Running it like this the heating works but hot water does not. I don’t know if it is relevant but I have just noticed on the app that when the heating comes on the little orange semicircle appears but on hot water it’s always there as if it thinks it’s on all the time.

 

[iman999]

Is it definitely a dual channel Hive? Also, where is the live and neutral from the original Honeywell ST699?

Yes it’s definitely 2 channel, I removed them as thought I’d only need one live and neutral in the new box. Did I do a stupid?! You could be onto something there because the Honeywell only did hot water and it’s the hot water I seem to have an issue with. The thing I can’t understand is mum has had two or three baths and use loads of water since Friday and she says there is an abundance of hot water.

 

[iman999]

Is it definitely a dual channel Hive? Also, where is the live and neutral from the original Honeywell ST699?

I’ve just taken the big junction box apart and the yellow and grey wires which I have removed are joined in that box and go nowhere!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

No you didn’t do a stupid, just trying to work out your wiring and yes you only need one set of permanent live and permanent neutral. Is the cylinder thermostat calling for hot water? Try turning it up.

 

[iman999]

Looking more closely in the junction box it seems a bit of a mess I’ll probably need a full wiring diagram. The white wire in T3 goes to the thermostat on the tank, the other wire from thermostat goes to a remote valve. Black wire in T4 goes to a remote valve. That is the working part of the system, as previously mentioned the yellow and grey are joined together in the junction box and go nowhere. this is turned out into a bit of a nightmare I wish I’d never touched it. Any idea where I would find a wiring diagram for this setup?

 

[iman999]

No you didn’t do a stupid, just trying to work out your wiring and yes you only need one set of permanent live and permanent neutral. Is the cylinder thermostat calling for hot water? Try turning it up.

The hot water is on schedule to be on currently and when I turned the thermostat up it did click and then called for hot water and the boiler fired up it’s possible all my tests failed because the thermostat says hot water wasn’t required but I can’t work out why it’s got so much hot water as I’ve never seen it come on yet! I have the kids here so I will have to go home soon I might put it all back together and see what happens over the next day or so. I will soon get a call if there’s a cold Bath! I really appreciate the help I’ll look out to see if you send any more messages on the information I have given you and will report back maybe tomorrow if I get the chance to come over here again, really want it sorted for Mum she’s nearly 80!