Hive Install Advice

[TheFew]

Hi,

I have a Worcester Bosch boiler that supplies central heating, and water heating to a cylinder.

The boiler is serviced by a British Gas UP2 programmer and a WR1 receiver that links to a wireless thermostat elsewhere in the house.

The set up is shown in the below picture...

I am hoping to replace this with a Hive 2 Channel controller.

Is it just a simple case of removing the WR1 entirely and replicating the wiring in the UP2 Programmer in the Hive controller or is it more complex than that?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[TheFew]

Hi again,

Well after removing my UP2 front plate it seems that I do not have a HW OFF and a CH OFF wire, but I understand that these are not necessary. So happy days.

From reading around it seems that I now need to remove my WR1 wireless receiver from the the system. From what I have read this is done by linking the "live" and "switched live" wires.

Now this is where I get a bit lost. My wiring junction box is shown below. The wire from the WR1 is the left most cable entering the junction box.

The feed from the WR1 has five wires:

- Brown: this goes to a set of common live wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Blue: this goes to a set of common neutral wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Green/yellow: this goes to a set of common earth wires in the middle of the junction box.
- Black: this enters port #2 which is labeled "Call" and is linked by a red jumper to "HTG Brown".
- Grey: this enters port #3 which is labeled "Com" and is linked by a red jumper to "HTG On".

So the question is what modifications do I need to make in the junction box to remove the WR1 from the system and allow the new Hive system to work? Presumably I could just remove the wires at the WR1 unit and make the changes at that end using terminal block, but that would probably be a bit untidy!

Thanks for any support!

 

[Johnmdc]

Remove all 5 wires going to the wr1 in the wiring center.
Move the brown wire in 4 to 3 in the wiring center.
Hive receiver will fit the same backplate as the up2 no need to change any wires.
Job done.

 

[TheFew]

Thanks for the info!

I have removed the WR1 from the system and updated my wiring accordingly. I moved the red jumper wire as opposed to the brown wire, but to the same ends.

When turning the boiler back on it seems to go through its normal process of firing to keep its internal temperature in the specified range. The boiler is a Worcester Green Star 40CDI.

However, when trying to test the Hive install by pressing the "Heating On" button on the Hive programmer, the boiler failed to fire. The boiler also failed to fire when pressing the "Water On" bottom on the programmer. So I am not sure that the install is correct (i.e. the Hive programmer does not seem to directly fire the boiler).

I did also note that the boiler flashed the code "-¦¦-" in the display, which seems to be related to commissioning mode after the boiler has been turned off.

Do you think I will need to wait 30 mins until commissioning mode is complete before I can test the Hive install?

The Hive Hub, Controller and thermostat all seem to communicate ok (green lights across the board).

Thoughts?

 

[Johnmdc]

Yes with the CDi boilers if the power has been off for a while they go through a 20 minute sequence when turned back on before they fire up.

 

[TheFew]

Yes with the CDi boilers if the power has been off for a while they go through a 20 minute sequence when turned back on before they fire up.

Thanks. I did leave it for 30 mins. But still no joy.

I have noted that the system pressure was down at 0.5bar (must be a small leak somewhere). So I have topped it up to 1 bar and flicked it on and off again.

If it still does not work after another 30 mins, any thoughts on next steps?

Thanks

 

[Johnmdc]

Did you sort it out?
I did one on a 42 CDi today and it did what you described for about 15 minutes before it fired up.

 

[TheFew]

Did you sort it out?
I did one on a 42 CDi today and it did what you described for about 15 minutes before it fired up.

Nope I failed to get the Hive installed and working, so I had to revert it back to the old WR1 and UP2 (so the wife did not die of cold).

With the Hive installed the boiler failed to fire when Heating On was pressed and seemed to give a "gradient limitation" error (where the primary temperature is rising too fast and the burner has switched off for 2 minutes).

So not sure what the issue is and it seems like back to square one and to double check the wiring. Perhaps the Hive is not a direct replacement for the UP22 after all?