Hive...Apologies in advance for another one...followed advice from 2 previous threads but!

27 Nov 2018
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United Kingdom
New 2 ch Hive unit, separate boiler and hot water system
Current system is a UP2 + WR1

Have followed advice from 2 previous threads about removing the WR1 yet on both occasions the Heating works, the Hot water doesn't. so either my current UP2/WR1 install is slightly different or i'm making a mistake.

first tried, removing the WR1 from the circuit loop by joining terminals 1 and 3
second, removed the WR1 connections from the main terminal block and moving the brown cable from 4 to 3.
both of those recommendations were from previous posts yet the hot water didn't come on.

The WR1 Block is the one with the coloured cables, the UP2 block is the one with all black cables.
The picture for the main block has cables 2 and 3 removed (as i hadn't yet put them back when i took the picture)

Thanks for any advice in advance.


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You should have a Hive Dual Channel Version to get heating and hot water control. I guess this is what you mean by "2 ch"

With your type of system, the Hive replaces the UP2 programmer, not the thermostat receiver. [There aren't any wires relating to hot water control at the thermostat receiver. You are probably following the instructions for a combi boiler] The UP2 and the Hive are wired the same, so the wires are the same.

The old room thermostat receiver should be decommissioned by either putting both of the wires that presently are in terminals 1 and 3, together in terminal 1 and leaving the thermostat in place. Or alternatively if you want to remove the old thermostat, the trace the wires back to their origin disconnect the thermostat cable and link together the terminal you have just removed the aforesaid two wires from.
Yes i have the 2 channel version, what you said was basically similar to the other posts, ill try again, maybe i was just unlucky and had a dry connection

Many thanks
Did you use the new back plate that came with the Hive, or keep the existing? I know they are supposed to be universal, but in reality I have known them not to always fit too well. I always fit the new back plate then they are both new together.
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used existing back-plate, fit was perfect and nearly all previous posts suggest with a UP2 programmer, there is no need to change it.

In theory that is correct, and most do fit, but I have had a couple that because they are from different manufacturers whilst they seem to fit well physically, the electrical pins between the two parts don't contact perfectly. I wouldn't have suggested it if it was working OK, but as it's not I'm just trying to help with possible suggestions.

There's also a possibility that the original one has become twisted slightly over time because the wall isn't flat, or the pins are worn. A new one comes with the Hive, so I always swap them over, that way they are both matched and new together.

The wire in the programmer terminal 3 is the one that controls the hot water by the way, if you are looking for a "dry connection"

I have assumed that you checked that the hot water cylinder is cool, so that the cylinder thermostat is actually calling for heat.
That's a good piece of information, many thanks for the heads up.

Cylinder wise, yes i did, i guess i had a bad day.... One of many, LOL


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