Unless it is a LED filament lamp,
which has the control equipment in the base.
The base and any full sized ES holder acts as a heat-sink.
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Wiring reclaimed light
- Thread starter ladwey
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which has the control equipment in the base.
The base and any full sized ES holder acts as a heat-sink.
The center contact of an ES socket should be connected to the Line.
My experience, suggests even that would not be enough. LED's work coolest base down. I recently had two out of three LED's fail, afer just 12months use, in wall lights, base up, with shades open at the bottom. Heat rises, then had no way for the warm air to escape. Realising what caused their failure, I've since inverted the fittings.
I had a 6w LED fail, base up, in an outdoor lantern style fitting twice after two years each. The fitting was several times the air volume of your fitting. I then modified the fitting, drilling air holes in the top and base, since when it has survived well. The light is on, from dusk, until 11pm each day.
They last forever, if you don't turn them on.
I have no experience of those lamps.
what brand of LEDs are you using Harry? out of interest
They were on 15hours a day .
I've tried various ones, so no particular maker. All the lamps which have worked since switching, have been unbranded. The two which failed in the wall lights, were a decent brand bought from Screwfix.
I strongly suggest that you try one or two..
Here is an extract from an information piece
Filament LEDs.
First patented in 2008, but developed largely since 2015, are “Filament LEDs”.
The LED “filament” consists of multiple series-connected LEDs on a transparent substrate,
A benefit of the filament design is potentially higher efficiency due to the use of more LED emitters with lower driving currents. A major benefit of the design is the ease with which near full "global" (360°) illumination can be obtained from arrays of filaments.
Close-Up view of a LED Filament (at reduced brightness), showing the individual LEDs.
Shown below is a photo of a typical LED Filament Lamp
Here is a photo of a similar Lamp, which has been cut apart to show its construction.
Such lamps look very much like Incandescent Lamps and are constructed in much the same way, usually within a Glass Envelope – not a Plastic Envelope, as other LEDs often are.
Filament LED Lamps with “Frosted Glass” envelopes are available, although, perhaps, not enough are supplied.
Note that the “Control Equipment” takes up very little room and can fit within the confines of the metal Base.
While the actual “filaments” do become “warm”, there is less heat generated by the small amount of “Control Equipment” than with other types of LED lamps.
In addition, this heat is generated within the metal Base, which is itself encased in a metal socket, both of which act as “Heat Sinks”.
As a result, Filament type LED Lamps can be placed in enclosures which lack ventilation.
Now I know what we are discussing!
A few local pubs, were fitted with those, in the public areas, so I've been able to at least keep an eye on their failures - where they have been replaced with a slightly different style of lamp. I seen that many have failed and been replaced, though I appreciate they will be on longer than the LED's I have at home. They are also not that bright, good for mood lighting perhaps?
It mentions the electronics are in the base, which improves the cool running. All of my normal LED's, have the electronics in the base, or close to the base.
The fashion ones you see in pubs aren’t bright.
But the ones I have at home are. Equivalent of 60w or 100w for example.
They also consume about 1w less than other LEDs.
Just 5w for 60w equivalent. And light output in all directions.
But the ones I have at home are. Equivalent of 60w or 100w for example.
They also consume about 1w less than other LEDs.
Just 5w for 60w equivalent. And light output in all directions.
A local restaurant went all LED a few years ago, I'd say about 2018. light steampunk would be my description, above each table that couldn't be moved due to space constraints being several filament LEDs just above eye level for me while seated.
We were always regulars as convenient for multiple relatives, father in law in particular used to go most thursdays with a neighbour and I/we'd often take them. One of the duty managers in particular is like an old friend and always up for a chat.
First off the multiple complaints about being dazzled eventually found lots of knots in the cables or being wrapped around the (in my opinion reclaimed and ugly) gas pipe and fittings. Like Harry it was easy to monitor the failed bulbs and the changes of replacements styles. The manageress reckoned 4 or 5 per day per day (this is a large property, I'd estimate at least 300 seats so easily 1000 lights). A couple of years ago they did a complete system replacement over the period of several months to coincide the the rate of failures and for a while no failures but now they are still finding the cost of running and repairing lighting exceeds that of the 'old fashioned lights' as she describes them.
One of the filament lights I have, fades the light up when you switch it on. I assume this is to increase the lamp life.
Starts at about 75% output and fades upto maximum over 1 sec. It's easy on the eyes. Brand is Diall. (B&Q / screwfix Kingfisher). 60W eqv.
Not run the filament ones that many months, but I am very impressed with Diall lamps so far. I like the way some of them have a 330° light output, so you get light bouncing off the ceiling like old lamps, and this really helps light an old room. Watts per lumens seams good too.
What I have run for is a while is Levance 100W Equ (as recommended by flameport). I assume these are filament. (they don't fade up)
One intermittent failure so far. I don't think its an LED itself. Seams more of an issue with the voltage protection circuit. Some days you turn it on and it with strobe like mad. It will go for weeks without doing it again!
Both look all glass from the outside and pearl just like an old lamp. Can't tell them apart
Starts at about 75% output and fades upto maximum over 1 sec. It's easy on the eyes. Brand is Diall. (B&Q / screwfix Kingfisher). 60W eqv.
Not run the filament ones that many months, but I am very impressed with Diall lamps so far. I like the way some of them have a 330° light output, so you get light bouncing off the ceiling like old lamps, and this really helps light an old room. Watts per lumens seams good too.
What I have run for is a while is Levance 100W Equ (as recommended by flameport). I assume these are filament. (they don't fade up)
One intermittent failure so far. I don't think its an LED itself. Seams more of an issue with the voltage protection circuit. Some days you turn it on and it with strobe like mad. It will go for weeks without doing it again!
Both look all glass from the outside and pearl just like an old lamp. Can't tell them apart
I've heard from several sources about the Ledvance bulbs flashing but having not encountered it myself I don't have any advice to offer, I did do a google search once (and I think I was on their website) all it came up with was the generic: dimmer incompatibility, power fluctations, wiring problem etc and of course nothing to do with the product itself.
I had something similar with one make (but don't recall which) in some light track fittings where I assume it was an overheating issue as it only affected that make. To put it into perspective this was a village hall with 3 tracks; along the front and down both side of the stage, a total of 48 lights (very typical of domestic spotlights of a certain age) of varying style, power and make. Of course I don't know if all of that make were affected as I only looked at the problems.
I had something similar with one make (but don't recall which) in some light track fittings where I assume it was an overheating issue as it only affected that make. To put it into perspective this was a village hall with 3 tracks; along the front and down both side of the stage, a total of 48 lights (very typical of domestic spotlights of a certain age) of varying style, power and make. Of course I don't know if all of that make were affected as I only looked at the problems.
No dimmer switch for me.
Did start when there were elec. Problems in the pavement. And they had to change a switch in a manhole.
Did start when there were elec. Problems in the pavement. And they had to change a switch in a manhole.
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