Garden Gate

[Tetrarch]

I have an approximate 10' space next to my house. I'd like to have a single 6' gate and a 4' fence to fill this space (pic below).
I have some 22mm loglap left over that I would like to face both the gate and the fence with

Slight wrinkle is that the lean to you can attached to the right side of the house is not suitable to hang a gate from. I'm going to be putting in a 6" or 8" post from which to hang the single gate. This will be quite a weight as the loglap alone will be 42kg and if possible I'd like to do it without a guide wheel

I've looked at some basic fence designs and I'd just like to canvas the DIYnot hive mind to get some opinions:

Materials:

Gate size 6' x 6' (approx)
22mm thick log-lap (2.1kg per length)
C24 4x2
Hook and band hinges (I already have two 18" of these but they do come in up to 3' lengths if that's necessary)
https://ttcwm.com/products/adjustab...ook-and-band-garden-shed-door-in-galv-black-2

My plan is to sandwich the hinges between the log-lap and the support frame, and that's why I've located the cross-beams as they are

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

TIA

Regards

Tet

 

[Burnerman]

I think you'll get a few opinions regarding this one, but for what it's worth, here's mine.....
Option 1, but with an extra horizontal in the centre, maybe using 150mm wide timber;
I'd definitely go for an 8" post and heavy duty galvanised hinges, 36" long but I always over engineer things!
That's a bonny house you have there.
John

 

[scbk]

I would do option 1 too.

I have it in my head the hinge should be 1/3rd of the gate. So 6ft wide gate means 2ft long hinge. I would use adjustable hook and band.

Why do you want a 6ft wide gate? Seems an awkward size? Too big for pedestrian use, too small for vehicles? Would it not be better as a double, a small gate for everyday, and a larger one you can open too if you need to get a vehicle/machine in?

 

[Diver Fred]

I would do option 1 too.

I have it in my head the hinge should be 1/3rd of the gate. So 6ft wide gate means 2ft long hinge. I would use adjustable hook and band.

Why do you want a 6ft wide gate? Seems an awkward size? Too big for pedestrian use, too small for vehicles? Would it not be better as a double, a small gate for everyday, and a larger one you can open too if you need to get a vehicle/machine in?

I'd certainly go for the longest band Hinges you can get (worst comes to worst - a longer one at the top. especially if you are sandwiching them behind the facing timbers.

 

[carmanmemoranda]

A normal wood post won't be strong enough to last.

 

[Tetrarch]

I would do option 1 too.

I have it in my head the hinge should be 1/3rd of the gate. So 6ft wide gate means 2ft long hinge. I would use adjustable hook and band.

Why do you want a 6ft wide gate? Seems an awkward size? Too big for pedestrian use, too small for vehicles? Would it not be better as a double, a small gate for everyday, and a larger one you can open too if you need to get a vehicle/machine in?

We have a pedestrian gate on the other side. My idea is to camouflage the gate by making it look from the street that it is a continuous run of log-lap without any gate furniture on show externally

The reason I only have six feet is that this is all the access I have to the garden as the shed has the same access gap and it gives me room to a) swing the gate either way and b) space for my (planned) pellet silo - see below

Regards

Tet

 

[big-all]

keep in mind what you have in front off the hinge will effect how far it will open forward or iff inward opening will reduce the width available by twice the cladding thickness, dependent on hinge type and position
in other words a gate that may open to say 120 degrees with 12-18mm cladding may only open to 80-95 degrees with 35mm cladding as it hits the post and turns into a massive lever

 

[blup]

Option 2 with separate diagonals within each “square”

 

[Tetrarch]

Update:

Thanks for the assist so far. Posts are in, timber and hardware acquired. This is the latest:

I've blown up the construction for critique. 100mm c24 timber with glued and screwed dado joints to 25mm depth 100mm from the ends to retain the structure of the cross beams

I'm absolutely no expert and would welcome any opinions

Regards

Tet

 

[JohnD]

You mean a 6ft wide gate (I thought at first you meant high)

This will be very heavy and will exert leverage on the post.

You could support it by attaching to something else, such as bracing it to the house with an extra strut bypassing the shed, or, you can strengthen a portal immensely by adding a beam or lintel across the top so the two posts brace each other. This works when the gates are closed, which they mostly will be. You can add a diagonal support from the top of the post to a strong ground anchor to take the weight when open. A jockey wheel will also help.

I have something similar, and because it is hardly ever used, the larger gate is hinged, but is bolted shut to a central post which takes the weight most if the time, preventing leaning. The central post can be lifted out if I ever need to take large machinery through, and I could unbolt the lintel if necessary (I use stainless studding).

 

[Tetrarch]

You mean a 6ft wide gate (I thought at first you meant high)

This will be very heavy and will exert leverage on the post.

You could support it by attaching to something else, such as bracing it to the house with an extra strut bypassing the shed, or, you can strengthen a portal immensely by adding a beam or lintel across the top so the two posts brace each other. This works when the gates are closed, which they mostly will be. You can add a diagonal support from the top of the post to a strong ground anchor to take the weight when open. A jockey wheel will also help.

I have something similar, and because it is hardly ever used, the larger gate is hinged, but is bolted shut to a central post which takes the weight most if the time, preventing leaning. The central post can be lifted out if I ever need to take large machinery through, and I could unbolt the lintel if necessary (I use stainless studding).

Thanks for your comments. I attach a more comprehensive sketch. Right-hand post cannot take any lateral load but will have at least two bolts or latches. Left-most 6" post was put in the assist with the lateral load on the central 8" post, braced with 4x2's

Weight-wise I think that the gate will weigh about 75kg. 45kg for the log-lap and 30kg in 4x2

Regards

Tet

 

[JohnD]

Thanks for your comments. I attach a more comprehensive sketch. Right-hand post cannot take any lateral load but will have at least two bolts or latches. Left-most 6" post was put in the assist with the lateral load on the central 8" post, braced with 4x2's

Weight-wise I think that the gate will weigh about 75kg. 45kg for the log-lap and 30kg in 4x2

Regards

Tet

If I interpret your diagram correctly, the one-metre panel braces the post with the hinges for the two-metre gate.

It would brace better with a diagonal in tension from the top of the hinge post, to the bottom of the bracing post.

Your wide gate would benefit from a bar or cable in tension, from the top of the hinge edge, to the bottom of the latch edge, with provision to tighten it with a screw thread when the gate sags (it will). Your initial fit should be with the gate slightly trapezoid, with the latch side an inch or two higher than the hinge side. You could use large eyebolts in the corners, or there is a steel corner bracket made for the purpose (I haven't got a link)

 

[skinneroo]

If I interpret your diagram correctly, the one-metre panel braces the post with the hinges for the two-metre gate.

It would brace better with a diagonal in tension from the top of the hinge post, to the bottom of the bracing post.

Your wide gate would benefit from a bar or cable in tension, from the top of the hinge edge, to the bottom of the latch edge, with provision to tighten it with a screw thread when the gate sags (it will). Your initial fit should be with the gate slightly trapezoid, with the latch side an inch or two higher than the hinge side. You could use large eyebolts in the corners, or there is a steel corner bracket made for the purpose (I haven't got a link)

I was always under the impression that wooden gate diagonals should be in compression?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I was always under the impression that wooden gate diagonals should be in compression?

Correct, you have drawn the gate correctly. John is suggesting you fit a diagonal brace to your side panel, which would be parallel to your gate braces and also consider adding a cable tensioner eg https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/image-jpg.46020/ there are modestly priced kits you can buy.

 

[JohnD]

The tension diagonal can also be done with a steel bar, threaded at the ends for adjustment, you will see these on old level crossing gates, which are very heavy and liable to sag.

I think a bar looks better than cable, but would be more expensive. You could do it with steel studding, not very expensive, but will need painting as even the BZP steel is not durable outdoors. I often use stainless. Paint will make it blend in better.