How to tackle two walls not being square for a bath. Thick adhesive ok?

[freddiemercurystwin]

No it doesn't need to be tapered, overthinking it now. What's the gap between those studs? Looks more than 600 but photos can be deceptive.

 

[Joe Fixit]

No it doesn't need to be tapered, overthinking it now. What's the gap between those studs? Looks more than 600 but photos can be deceptive.

Yes, the gap is actually 67cm as it's the *** paramount wall. Are you worried about the stud spacing being too wide for HB?

I will be adding additional studs and noggins to came up the space and also to provide something for the edges for the HB boards to screw into. I probably don't need as much but when putting up the other wall, I found myself using about 18/20 screws per board. The recommended 12 screws per board just seemed too low and still left the board with a bit of flex.

Hope the sketch makes sense, the noggins are weird at the bottom as I'm needing the space for the cold feed and didn't want to notch the noggin due to the narrow depth.

So with this in mind, do I you think I could just screw the baton (got some d4 wood glue) to the face of the RH stud as shown onto he photos?

Also, I haven't got a length long enough for the whole so wondering if I can just do small sections like wedges. Or best to have a complete length?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

OK with those extra yellow studs that'll be fine, you often have to do a seemingly less than ideal board configuration otherwise you end up wasting a load of material as it's only available in slightly weird sizes, as you say just use plenty of fixings it will be fine. As mentioned provided your spacers are adequate and solid and under every screw it'll be fine.

 

[Joe Fixit]

OK with those extra yellow studs that'll be fine, you often have to do a seemingly less than ideal board configuration otherwise you end up wasting a load of material as it's only available in slightly weird sizes, as you say just use plenty of fixings it will be fine. As mentioned provided your spacers are adequate and solid and under every screw it'll be fine.

Thanks. People say to use construction glue for shims but wondered if using D4 wood adhesive is ok here?

 

[Joe Fixit]

Thanks for your advice all, just as feedback/update. I decided to glue and screw a thin baton to the right hand vertical stud. Use treated c16 for a new vertical stud (fitted quite nicely) and noggins to support. Sturdy for most part except the smallest flex in the new vertical (back and forwards) But hoping that'll get the strength needed when I fix the hardieboards on.

 

[Joe Fixit]

As I've built out the right vertical stud. I now have this extra bit of wall protruding out from the door frame. Any suggestions on how I can easily treat this?

In guessing it'll be difficult to find a frame to fit exactly this size

(Happy to and was expecting to remove the rest of the the frame mouldings)

 

[CountryFan]

Does the architrave not cover it?

 

[Joe Fixit]

Does the architrave not cover it?

No, if you look at the photo of the existing section, the Hardie board will be at the same level with it.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Remove all the architraves, fit a suitably sized timber packer to your jamb next to the tiles then refit the architrave to that one. Then fit new bigger architraves to the head and right hand jamb.

 

[Joe Fixit]

Remove all the architraves, fit a suitably sized timber packer to your jamb next to the tiles then refit the architrave to that one. Then fit new bigger architraves to the head and right hand jamb.

Yes, that's what I was thinking is only option but difficult part of finding a packer to fit this width and depth will be difficult (32mm width and depth probably 25mm ish - although guess depth can be slightly flexible depending on thickness of tile adhesive

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Well you'll have to scour the sheds to find something suitable (fire stop maybe), get one made up in a local timber mill or make one yourself with whatever tools you have available. You'll have a similar conundrum when it comes to sourcing a bigger architrave presumably?

 

[Joe Fixit]

Yes, hence I'm having a bit of a headache over this conundrum. I even thought about trying to find a thick enough architrave and then rebate cut it so it can sit over the tile. It would need to be something around 25mm though...

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Sure that would work either way something will need planing down or rebating or whatever. Or overboard and tile the whole wall? At least you could use the original architrave then.

 

[CountryFan]

Would window packers work?

 

[Joe Fixit]

Would window packers work?

Window packers would help with making the architrave the right level with he tiles and every will look fine only is looking at the tile head on. The packers would then be visible from the side as you walk in. Haha guess then I would still need to find a strip of wood exactly the right size and angle to fit perfectly which mag even be harder