Standby Inverter supply cable through a solid wall - how best to do this safely? (Ed,)

[SUNRAY]

Personally I'd install a couple of sockets beside the existing for fridge & freezer and cable them directly to the generator/power source.
When required simply start-up the standby power and replug.

A very crude sketch

 

[Oooophnorth]

If you want something a bit neater than just a "hole in the wall", how about a "flex outlet plate".

That does sound neat. Thanks.

 

[Oooophnorth]

Personally I'd install a couple of sockets beside the existing for fridge & freezer and cable them directly to the generator/power source.
When required simply start-up the standby power and replug.

A very crude sketch
View attachment 383325

Hey thanks. Much appreciated. And the sketch/plan was clear.

 

[ericmark]

Not neat but practical the supply to 2 x 2 gang RCD sockets, supplying three freezers. Would have preferred flush, but not allowed as no RCD protection on the cables. Maybe I could use some SWA buried in the wall. I have one spare outlet for use in a power cut.

To use plug and sockets instead of an auto switching inverter requires us to be home, last house lost to freezers full of food, as we were away when the RCD tripped, with set up we have now, very unlikely the RCD will trip, and also it auto switches to UPS supply.

For lights, and even the central heating the latter which is on UPS supply, one can manually switch over, with a upright freezer with auto defrost, the switch over really needs to be automatic. Chest freezer no so bad, but I was rather surprised how fast items in the top of an auto defrost freezer defrost.

Last house in the kitchen when freezer went bang, and I had a spare in garage, so turned on spare, and gave it an hour to cool, found stuff in top 9 inches of failed freezer had defrosted, lower down stuff was OK. I will guess just completed defrost cycle when it failed, but had expected more than one hour before stuff defrosted.

Chest freezer full, and likely can be 24 hours without power, but not an auto defrost upright. The auto defrost upright relies on a fan to circulate the air from working at the back of freezer to the food at front, which in the main is good, as all food at same temperature there are no warm spots. And turning off fan during defrost food stays cold while working are defrosted. But loss of power also clearly means loss of fan, so food at top defrosts first.

As to any problems with refrozen food I have no idea, ice lollies don't fair very well, but as to if fit to eat, I have not got a clue, but we go to great lengths to carry frozen food from supermarket in cool bags etc. So I will assume there is a good reason for that?

 

[Oooophnorth]

Not neat but practical View attachment 383339View attachment 383340 the supply to 2 x 2 gang RCD sockets, supplying three freezers. Would have preferred flush, but not allowed as no RCD protection on the cables. Maybe I could use some SWA buried in the wall. I have one spare outlet for use in a power cut.

To use plug and sockets instead of an auto switching inverter requires us to be home, last house lost to freezers full of food, as we were away when the RCD tripped, with set up we have now, very unlikely the RCD will trip, and also it auto switches to UPS supply.

For lights, and even the central heating the latter which is on UPS supply, one can manually switch over, with a upright freezer with auto defrost, the switch over really needs to be automatic. Chest freezer no so bad, but I was rather surprised how fast items in the top of an auto defrost freezer defrost.

Last house in the kitchen when freezer went bang, and I had a spare in garage, so turned on spare, and gave it an hour to cool, found stuff in top 9 inches of failed freezer had defrosted, lower down stuff was OK. I will guess just completed defrost cycle when it failed, but had expected more than one hour before stuff defrosted.

Chest freezer full, and likely can be 24 hours without power, but not an auto defrost upright. The auto defrost upright relies on a fan to circulate the air from working at the back of freezer to the food at front, which in the main is good, as all food at same temperature there are no warm spots. And turning off fan during defrost food stays cold while working are defrosted. But loss of power also clearly means loss of fan, so food at top defrosts first.

As to any problems with refrozen food I have no idea, ice lollies don't fair very well, but as to if fit to eat, I have not got a clue, but we go to great lengths to carry frozen food from supermarket in cool bags etc. So I will assume there is a good reason for that?

I like that. Belt and braces system too and you've clearly learned, and put to good use, from the experience. Thanks for sharing.