• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Internal Gutter Problem - Victorian Houses

Joined
26 Mar 2016
Messages
178
Reaction score
4
Country
United Kingdom
I look after the building maintenance for a 5 storey Victorian leasehold property in East London.

The guy who does the same job for the adjoining property (also leasehold) brought a problem to my attention a few months ago. The top floor flat inside that building has been seeing rainwater running down the internal walls at the front of the building during heavy rain. He said it had been a problem for years in his building. It had never happened (to the best of my knowledge) inside our building - until about a month ago during a huge thunderstorm that bubbled up locally one afternoon out of nowhere.

We went out onto the roof earlier in the year to look at how the guttering works up there. Water runs down the pitched roof and then along a narrow "gully" (I'm sure that's not the correct technical term) at the front. The gully has a slight slope on it to direct the water to a low spot on the roof where the two buildings meet. From there it flows into an internal downpipe which runs between the two buildings all the way 5 storeys down to the basement level, where it does a 90 degree bend and runs horizontally before popping out under a manhole cover.

It looks like in heavy rain the gutter downpipe can't cope with the amount of flow, meaning that it gets backed up, resulting in a pool of water sitting around on the roof around the gutter "entrance" (again, probably not the correct technical term) - and finding its way into the inside of the building from there.

IMG_0593.jpeg


We had a drainage guy come out last week with a special machine to clear out blockages. He went up the roof and sent his machine all the way down the vertical section of the downpipe to clear it out, but he said that it was already pretty clean. He wanted to use a pressure washer but said there was no way to get it up there onto the roof, so he used a mechanical thing instead (a K9204 FlexShaft Machine - apparently).

He also lifted the manhole cover and we could see that there was a blockage. Water (with some lovely stuff floating in it) had pooled in the drain below, and the outflow pipe from the gutter into the drain was submerged. Would that result in a lot of back pressure at the end of the downpipe and hence a much slower water flow rate through the downpipe when it rains?

The drainage guy advised us to get Thames Water to unblock the pipe between our drain and the sewer under the street - and now the blockage has gone. We're hoping that this means that water will flow more easily through the gutter downpipe now, although we're still not sure if the capacity of the downpipe is adequate. Estimated diameter 3 inches, which doesn't feel like a lot of capacity to serve a roof area of about 120 square metres. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

If we do need to do something to increase the capacity of the guttering, presumably the best thing to do is to add a new external downpipe to the front of the building and to route that down into the drains. Quite expensive though - scaffolding, etc. One contractor did suggest that some kind of emergency overflow might be viable as an alternative - just a short overflow pipe mounted v slightly higher than the top of the gutter so that any excess water will just run through the pipe and down the side of the building. I expect that'd be a lot cheaper, but it sounds a bit less professional so I'm not sure I fancy it...is that unfair?

A bit unsure how to proceed from here. Would be grateful for any advice.

Thank you.
 
Well if its been working for a hundred years why change it?
There is that, I suppose. I did wonder if climate change meant that there were more sudden heavy downpours than there were back in the late 19th C when it was built, but that's a bit speculative.
 
IMO running your idea of an overflow pipe discharging against the wall of the building could bring with it more problems that it would solve.
Increasing the RWP to 4" (110mm) could alleviate the problem but it might not. If your existing RWP OD is 3" I'm guessing its around 2 1/2 ID cast iron, so increasing the size to 4" plastic will allow much faster roof clearance and definitely far less likely to block being a larger bore and smooth inside.
Some much closer photos will help in assessing your dilemma, especially of the gutter and hopper head before the existing down pipe.
 
IMO running your idea of an overflow pipe discharging against the wall of the building could bring with it more problems that it would solve.
Increasing the RWP to 4" (110mm) could alleviate the problem but it might not. If your existing RWP OD is 3" I'm guessing its around 2 1/2 ID cast iron, so increasing the size to 4" plastic will allow much faster roof clearance and definitely far less likely to block being a larger bore and smooth inside.
Some much closer photos will help in assessing your dilemma, especially of the gutter and hopper head before the existing down pipe.
Thanks - however the downpipe is internal, not external (just the way they were built) - wouldn't removing such a thing and replacing with a wider pipe be a really difficult thing to do?
 
however the downpipe is internal, not external (just the way they were built) - wouldn't removing such a thing and replacing with a wider pipe be a really difficult thing to do?
Is it visible inside the property? Boxed in? Bricked in? .....?
 
Is it visible inside the property? Boxed in? Bricked in? .....?

All bricked in as far as I'm aware - not visible inside the property at all, must be behind a brick wall somewhere...? Sounds like an absolute nightmare to remove it all and replace.
 
Last edited:
Just running things through theoretically. A very very heavy rainfall would be classed as 50mm of rain/hr which for a roof of 120m2 would mean a total of 6m/3. 6m3/hr = 1.7l/s . The head required to push 1.07 l/s down a 62mm ID cast iron pipe is a lot less than 1m so your downpipe is not going to back up to the roof. If you imagined the entry into down pipe is a circular weir of 22/7 x 62 = 0.195m. The head required to pass 1.7l/s over that size weir would be in the region of 30mm. So getting the flow into the pipe and discharging it would appear not to be the problem but as you have alluded to is the size and gradient of the gutter which causes the flow to back up in the gutter and eventually start to overflow somewhere along its length. Looking at your picture is your house on the right as I would expect the property on the left to have more frequent overflow problems due to the gutters length?? If not ,so much for theory!!!
 
All that theoretical ****** doesn't help the OP.

@bigalxyz As the existing single downpipe is enclosed and passes through each floor, the building is what it is and the downpipe remains in situ until all agree to open the duct up and expose the lot to allow a proper survey before any possibility of remedial action. Whoever originally designed the rainwater clearance for that building obviously did not expect the rear part of the roof to be as it appears today (flat and covering the later addition of rooms in the roof), or they would have at the very least doubled up on the RW downpipes to the front elevations. That is the root cause of the problem, the rear roof conversions without any thought as to how the RW will be piped from the run of properties.
 
All that theoretical ****** doesn't help the OP.

@bigalxyz As the existing single downpipe is enclosed and passes through each floor, the building is what it is and the downpipe remains in situ until all agree to open the duct up and expose the lot to allow a proper survey before any possibility of remedial action. Whoever originally designed the rainwater clearance for that building obviously did not expect the rear part of the roof to be as it appears today (flat and covering the later addition of rooms in the roof), or they would have at the very least doubled up on the RW downpipes to the front elevations. That is the root cause of the problem, the rear roof conversions without any thought as to how the RW will be piped from the run of properties.

Thanks. Re the rear of the building - it's a slightly wonky photo (perspective etc.) so it does look almost as if it's flat after a loft conversion, but in fact it's the original roof, pitched at the same angle at the rear as at the front - no conversion done. The hatches you can see in the rear part of the roof are just smoke vents - not Velux windows or some such
 
Just running things through theoretically. A very very heavy rainfall would be classed as 50mm of rain/hr which for a roof of 120m2 would mean a total of 6m/3. 6m3/hr = 1.7l/s . The head required to push 1.07 l/s down a 62mm ID cast iron pipe is a lot less than 1m so your downpipe is not going to back up to the roof. If you imagined the entry into down pipe is a circular weir of 22/7 x 62 = 0.195m. The head required to pass 1.7l/s over that size weir would be in the region of 30mm. So getting the flow into the pipe and discharging it would appear not to be the problem but as you have alluded to is the size and gradient of the gutter which causes the flow to back up in the gutter and eventually start to overflow somewhere along its length. Looking at your picture is your house on the right as I would expect the property on the left to have more frequent overflow problems due to the gutters length?? If not ,so much for theory!!!

You can see 3 "chunks" of house/roof in the photo. Our house was originally the two leftmost chunks, converted into a single property about 25 years ago. The neighbour's house is the one on the right.
 
You can see 3 "chunks" of house/roof in the photo. Our house was originally the two leftmost chunks, converted into a single property about 25 years ago. The neighbour's house is the one on the right.
Oh well so much for theory, unless the gutters have different sizes and gradients which have caused the neighbour to have the problem more than you
 
Nothing can cope with monsoon-type downpours; I classify them as phantom leaks due to their very unusual volume.
If you have had them cleaned out, then there isn't much more you can do.
 
Nothing can cope with monsoon-type downpours; I classify them as phantom leaks due to their very unusual volume.
If you have had them cleaned out, then there isn't much more you can do.
Fair point I guess. But then should we not have some kind of emergency overflow pipe fitted, or is there some other way to relieve the pressure up there? What would be good practice?
 
should we not have some kind of emergency overflow pipe fitted,
I live in an area where normality is to have the gutter inside the parapet wall as in your case. Some houses (but not my one) do have a (properly done) hole through the parapet wall for when the downpipe can't cope. I believe this takes some careful planning as it needs to be below the level which the gutter reaches as it goes up under the roof tiles.

On the most recent occasion when this affected "my" house, leaves had managed to block the downpipe by lying across the top of it. Do you have a balloon leaf guard protecting the downpipe?

I'm afraid I can't be of much help other than echoing catlad and suggesting you clean out the gutters regularly.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top