Scraped all the loose paint off this old windowsill gonna then wash it down. Gonna put on peel stop on any places still dusty when I run my hands over it It's pretty dented and knackered, is it pointless filling the holes from flaked paint?
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Filling this old window sill
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
You have a number of options.
The easiest would be to skim the whole thing with Toupret Touprelith F. It is pretty easy to sand flat. It is not really suitable for windows sills that may have someone banging a ladder against them. You can hand sand it though if you need to. It does however have a very slight granular texture. After about 4 coats of masonry paint, you can lightly sand the masonry paint to make it (the paint) flatter.
Toupret make harder exterior fillers, but they require much more sanding.
If I want a very durable finish and don't care how many coats of filler I have to apply, I use two pack filler (eg Upol Easy 1). But the following took over half a day of filling, sanding and filling and sanding...
The following was done with a slightly harder Toupret filler- Fibrex (after I fitted helibars to deal with the cracks). It is not as hard as 2 pack though. The budget on the job was lower.
Toupret Murex is almost as hard as 2 pack, but the dust clogs the bags in my dust extractor, so I seldom use it these days.
Toupret Touprelith F is the only of the above options that I would consider hand sanding
The easiest would be to skim the whole thing with Toupret Touprelith F. It is pretty easy to sand flat. It is not really suitable for windows sills that may have someone banging a ladder against them. You can hand sand it though if you need to. It does however have a very slight granular texture. After about 4 coats of masonry paint, you can lightly sand the masonry paint to make it (the paint) flatter.
Toupret make harder exterior fillers, but they require much more sanding.
If I want a very durable finish and don't care how many coats of filler I have to apply, I use two pack filler (eg Upol Easy 1). But the following took over half a day of filling, sanding and filling and sanding...
The following was done with a slightly harder Toupret filler- Fibrex (after I fitted helibars to deal with the cracks). It is not as hard as 2 pack though. The budget on the job was lower.
Toupret Murex is almost as hard as 2 pack, but the dust clogs the bags in my dust extractor, so I seldom use it these days.
Toupret Touprelith F is the only of the above options that I would consider hand sanding
How do you skim it to get corners so square and bottom? What tools u use?
BTW I got electric festool sander and extractor
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So, yet again you are charging customers to carry out work where you ask on a DIY site on how to do it.
Does your customer know your doing this Johnny?
Andy
Does your customer know your doing this Johnny?
Andy
Yep, and doesn't care as long as it's done ok. Mate anyhow
Have you told the customer that you don't know what you are doing and will ask on a diy site what to do?
Doubt it!
Andy
I wrap polythene dust sheet around a length of timber and clamp it to the underside of the window sill. None of the fillers mentioned above will stick to the polythene.
Once the timber is in place, force the filler into the irregular underside. I try to make sure that it only goes backward about 5mm. If it is an old sill with no drip channel, I don't want rainwater to track back to the wall.
I normally fill the top of the sill first and sand, adding more filler as required. I normally use a very wide knife (12") for the top of the sill.
I use a suitably sized filling knife to face fill the front edge. Some of the filler will reach over the previously sanded top edge. I then use the filling knife to pull the excess filler on to the top face (to ensure it bonds).
Once the filler has set, I remove the clamps. The underside should not need sanding. The poly should pull away. On the balance of probability, you may need to refill the tiny areas difficult to access because of the clamps.
Which sander do you have? I tend to use the 150mm Rotex for the larger areas (80 grit paper). I then use my old DX93 (delta sander) for the internal corners.
If you are going to use the Toupret Touprelith F be advised that it has an annoying quirk. You can apply the first coat, sand it back and then apply a second coat to deal with low spots. When you sand the second coat back, the first coat shows (very slight) evidence of the latter filler (very) slightly ripping the first layer. I normally apply dilute SBR or a couple of coats of masonry paint and drop the abrasive grit to about 150 grit before applying a second coat of filler. That problem doesn't happen with their harder fillers or 2 pack.
I hope the above makes sense, it has been a long day and I am having a few pints.
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I often defer to people here when outside of my comfort zone.
I would rather that trades people who are unsure came here for advice rather effin' up the job.
But, yes, I get your overall point.
Have used self leveller on top of old worn Victorian sills, looked like new and no sanding required .
1. Every job you do is outside your comfort level. eg garden weeds
2. You are not a tradesman, more a chancer.
3. I'm glad you get my point.
Andy
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Mate, I get your point, but would you rather someone charged top dollar to do a sh!te job?
Yeah, he often seems to be taking on jobs that he might not be competent to do... but would you prefer a scenario where he charges the customer and provides a finish which will fail?
Collectively, we are able to nudge him in the right direction. He is willing to accept advice.
By helping him, we are, hopefully, helping his customers.
Ok but:
1. Don't charge top dollar when you are a handyman not knowing what you are doing.
2. All the jobs he takes on are too skilled for him.
3. He shouldn't take on work he can't do, which ends in failure
4. He has been nudged many times but doesn't get it or listern.
5. We should not be helping him so that we help his customers, they are being hoodwinked in thinking they are hiring a tradesman.
Andy
1. Don't charge top dollar when you are a handyman not knowing what you are doing.
2. All the jobs he takes on are too skilled for him.
3. He shouldn't take on work he can't do, which ends in failure
4. He has been nudged many times but doesn't get it or listern.
5. We should not be helping him so that we help his customers, they are being hoodwinked in thinking they are hiring a tradesman.
Andy
Andy, again, I appreciate the points you are making, but I don't agree that we are helping his (potential) customers by refusing to engage with him.
By helping him, you are enabling him to carry out work that is out of his depth.
Andy
Andy
I am guessing, or rather hoping, that you are not referring to me... I am not the OP.
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