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Screw extraction

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Hi

See section of internal door bolt. The heads have been destroyed over the years. I’m replacing doir fittings so want to remove this. At the moment there’s not enough exposed to twist with pliers. I think I need to drill into screw (anti clockwise) and then remove with one of those screw extractor things?

Don’t mind just drilling into screw to try and break it up if that’s better.

Your advice greatly appreciated as usual.

Thanks
 

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Looks like you might be able to drill the heads off, grind the stumps flush and remount the bolt keep upside own, as the holes seem to be slightly offset
 
One option is to drill into the remaining screw head with a large drill bit diameter, say 10mm, till you've opened the hole enough to get the bolt off.
Then see what's left and decide if you can either remove it by unscrewing with e.g. Pliers or molegrips, or you decide " if they're not coming out, they're going in " and tap them in with a blunt centrepunch.
Personally, I wouldn't take a grinder anywhere near a door frame.
 
Don’t mind just drilling into screw to try and break it up if that’s better.

Your advice greatly appreciated as usual.

Try, squeezing the head, to deform the screw heads into an oval, with vice grips. With the vice grips, you might then be able to unscrew the screws.
 
try drilling with a left handed bit, decent size 10mm, it may start to turn - the shank of the screw is probably hardened steel so you wont get a small twist drill in and a small extractor.

left hand drill may turn it - then as said above grind the stump off
 
I would probably just lever the fitting off with a Japanese claw bar. The screws are probably only 3.5mm in diameter
, and at a guess only 25-30mm long. I also assume that it is a softwood frame. Again, assuming that you are not putting anything back on that part of the frame, tidy it up with 2 pack filler.

I do carry TCT drill bits for those kind of jobs, namely removing screwheads, but as others have said, you either need to hammer the remaining screw in or try to grab the stub with mole grips- the latter of which is going to be difficult given the proximity to the wall.

Over the years, I have purchased about 3 different screw extractor kits (including one made by Trend). In the end, I use a TCT drill to remove he screw head...

Perhaps I was doing something wrong, and I freely admit that, more than once, I have snapped the arrow point on TCT bits because I applied too much pressure when I first started drilling into the pozidrive/phillips head.
 
Thanks for further responses. I’m out at the moment, but pretty certain the heads are too flush to use mole grips. (Will try) The other issue is the screws are fitted very close to the frame. Think it will probably have to be reverse drill bit malarkey.
 
You may even enjoy some success by (you/an assistant) closing the door, bolting it, then using careful brute force to open it, pulling the bolt receiver out of the wood

I wasnt clear on whether you need to remount this bolt or whether the removal is permanent/to be made good

Thought you were being rude then Do you mean screw, whole thing?

Either way, it will bring the same overall result. Probably easier to tap a slim claw bar tooth behind the the whole thing but if you want to chisel the screw head off and mole or cut the stub, same ends
 
Last edited:
I wasnt clear on whether you need to remount this bolt or whether the removal is permanent/to be made good
Need to replace with new bolt. (Same size)

Thanks
Either way, it will bring the same overall result. Probably easier to tap a slim claw bar tooth behind the the whole thing but if you want to chisel the screw head off and mole or cut the stub, same
Noted. Thanks.
 
Which does make me wonder if there is thus any need to remove the bolt keep at all?
No need to keep bolt keep.

Update-can’t “prise” screws or bolt keep off (or move screw heads away from bolt) with flat blades screwdriver. Also unable to get vice grips around screw heads.

Will have to invoke left handed drill option.

Watch this space.

Thanks
 

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