Hanging cabinets to plasterboard

[FiremanT]

The wall upon which I am to fit the wall cabinets is blocks, dot and dabbed and faced with plasterboard. I am comfortable with fitting the base units, but want to ensure safety of the wall units. I dont, know how the existing were fitted, but will obviously have a good look before starting the job. I had considered French Cleats but I don't want to extend the build time too much.

I found this video, using Fischer fixings, which seem so obvious so wonder why they don't seem to be "standard practice". The video is below, and would welcome any comments. I asume that they will fit through Howdens brackets okay?

Or these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/corefix-connect-metal-plastic-100-heavy-duty-dot-dab-wall-fixings-10mm-x-95mm-24-pack/344hg

Thanks

 

[Ron0z]

That seemed to work out perfectly for the guy in the video. My main issue in drilling into masonry is that more often than not, the drill tends to wobble around before settling into place. If the brick, concrete, or stone has hard and soft areas, the bit will move to find the softer section. Just be aware of that as you go. Though, behind a cupboard, if you make a mistake, you can always try again nearby until you get the holes dead in line.

 

[blup]

Corefix are good but depend on there being the correct gap between the back of the plasterboard and the sold wall. Worst case scenario cut out the plasterboard and pack our with ply or timber and fix to that

 

[RrogerD]

Corefix are good but depend on there being the correct gap between the back of the plasterboard and the sold wall. Worst case scenario cut out the plasterboard and pack our with ply or timber and fix to that

Worst case scenario cut out the plasterboard and pack our with ply or timber and fix to that

Or, through that into the bricks behind

 

[FiremanT]

Corefix are good but depend on there being the correct gap between the back of the plasterboard and the sold wall. Worst case scenario cut out the plasterboard and pack our with ply or timber and fix to that

Yes, that had occurred to me.

 

[FiremanT]

Corefix are good but depend on there being the correct gap between the back of the plasterboard and the sold wall. Worst case scenario cut out the plasterboard and pack our with ply or timber and fix to that

I read a few negative reviews, and wondered whetherthe problem that they encountered may have related to that. I actually looked at some instructions, but although it shows a diagram, I could not see a maximum gap mentioned.

Thanks

 

[foxhole]

Have you identified type of blockwork ? Thermalite require quite different fixing method too most other blockwork .
Are you hanging kitchen cupboards? You can spread load using a rail support instead of supplied brackets .

 

[blup]

I read a few negative reviews, and wondered whetherthe problem that they encountered may have related to that. I actually looked at some instructions, but although it shows a diagram, I could not see a maximum gap mentioned.

Thanks

They worked fine when I fitted a heavy cabinet onto dot and dab. They come in two sizes depending on the thickness of the material, between 10 and 30 mm iirc.

 

[aveatry]

The best way is to use the long bracket versions that are about 2.5m long. I always sit the unit on a batten screwed to the wall as well, 20mm x 50mm or something, once you have a pelmet on you can not see the batten.

 

[opps]

When fitting wall units on dodgy walls I spread the load by using long fixing bars and cutting them to length. Rather than being limited to a total of 4 screws per unit, you can have 10(?).

Cabinet Hanger Wall Rail 27mm x 2032mm

Cabinet Hanger Wall Rail 27mm x 2032mm

www.tcfixings.co.uk

I too would use coreFix on dot and dab. The metal insert is supposed to support the screw such that it doesn't potentially bend down under load. The downside is that they have a plastic collar which will sit proud of the plaster. I use a countersink so that they are flush.

 

[FiremanT]

Have you identified type of blockwork ? Thermalite require quite different fixing method too most other blockwork .
Are you hanging kitchen cupboards? You can spread load using a rail support instead of supplied brackets .

No, I haven’t.
When you say rails, do you mean French Cleats?
Would one buy them, or create them?

 

[foxhole]

No, I haven’t.
When you say rails, do you mean French Cleats?
Would one buy them, or create them?

Opps already links to them in his post .See above post #10

 

[FiremanT]

The best way is to use the long bracket versions that are about 2.5m long. I always sit the unit on a batten screwed to the wall as well, 20mm x 50mm or something, once you have a pelmet on you can not see the batten.

I thought about that, but we are having granite uo stands from the worktop to underside of cabinets. I suppose when painted appropriately they would blend.
The biggest problem may be getting long lengths of wood that are perfectly straight, though

 

[aveatry]

I thought about that, but we are having granite uo stands from the worktop to underside of cabinets. I suppose when painted appropriately they would blend.
The biggest problem may be getting long lengths of wood that are perfectly straight, though

In that case the upstands will do the job of the battens. I only do it as a belt and braces thing.

 

[FiremanT]

In that case the upstands will do the job of the battens. I only do it as a belt and braces thing.

I actually neverthouth of that!
Thinking, though, although the granite firm could fit them before the cabinets, there is the issue of placment of the backpanel between units, where there will be an extractor fan. The Granite would have to be perfectly measured to allow the units to fit on to it, while aligning ecatly with the top of tall cabinets.