Just had a pressure reducing valve fitted above the stop cock about 3 hours ago to reduce high static pressure that I had, it was set at 3 bar static and sat on 3 bar after the plumber ran taps etc…. I’ve just noticed that it’s now reading 3.5 bar static is this normal for it to raise slightly?
-
Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.
Prv raise
- Thread starter Domo1993
- Start date
If they haven't installed a drop tight PRV then yes they can suffer from creep. TBH if you have 7bar static then you don't want a PRV that suffers from creep, as was suggested.
www.diynot.com
7 bar static pressure
Recently had new taps on my bath, and when taking the panel off there was a prv under the bath, fitted to the cold feed not sure why it’s there as that’s the only one, but it was reading 7bar static, and around 2.5 with the tap running. i didn’t really believe this, thought it might be a faulty...
www.diynot.com
The prv they installed was Honeywell D04FM, not sure if it’s a decent one or not?If they haven't installed a drop tight PRV then yes they can suffer from creep. TBH if you have 7bar static then you don't want a PRV that suffers from creep, as was suggested.
7 bar static pressure
Recently had new taps on my bath, and when taking the panel off there was a prv under the bath, fitted to the cold feed not sure why it’s there as that’s the only one, but it was reading 7bar static, and around 2.5 with the tap running. i didn’t really believe this, thought it might be a faulty...
It's not a bad valve but it's not drop tight. They could have installed a Reliance Predator 312 for less money, especially if they got their valve from SF as the Reliance is available from the same place and that is drop tight, would just need to add a gauge
Bloody hell so does that mean I’m just going to have the same issue as before then?
All really down to how much creep the valve allows and that usually dictated by how much static pressure there is. That's why I suggested to ask for a drop tight valve.
All you can do now really is keep an eye on it and see how much it rises overnight.
All you can do now really is keep an eye on it and see how much it rises overnight.
Okay thank you! When I contacted our housing repairs team I did mention about a drop tight prv, guess they just ignored that part.
Well the one they installed isn't drop tight. Unfortunately it wouldn't surprise me if the installer didn't know what a drop tight PRV is.
If it's a HA can't you ask them to come back and swap it out for a drop tight valve?
If it's a HA can't you ask them to come back and swap it out for a drop tight valve?
Yeah it’s a HA I’ve asked them, they said they are going to pass it onto the supervisor to speak to me about it. If they say no I’ll just pay a plumber to sort it properly, rather that than a flood lol
Just noticed when the boiler does its pre heat or hot water is used that’s when the static pressure goes up on this gauge, even though I don’t have a water tank it’s all on demand water heating?
The PRV acts like a non return valve so the expanded water rises the pressure, some/most combi manufacturers now specify a small expansion vessel on the cold mains at the boiler due to failing plate heat exchangers and don't think they are covered under warranty unless the EV is installed.
What would you suggest I say to the plumber? Our boiler is a Worcester mt10, fed from the mains, no water tank in loft or cylinder, prv at stop tap was only fitted today, would you suggest a expansion vessel because of the prv
I suppose, ideally, yes, especially with a preheat combi but suggest you keep a eye on it for a day or two, I think the boiler heat exchanger is OK up to 10bar, but there are always some traces of air in the system which will probably absorb the pressure, you're probably only talking about 50ml, 0.05L or less of expanded water after preheat. What you might consider is running a hot tap for say 5 minutes with the boiler switched off, then shut the tap, note the static pressure, switch the boiler back on + preheat enabled and see what does the ststic pressure rise to then?.
You could also, sometime, do that test but let the boiler + preheat off for say 30 minutes or so and that will tell you the true rise in pressure due to the PRV (creep) leak past.
You could also, sometime, do that test but let the boiler + preheat off for say 30 minutes or so and that will tell you the true rise in pressure due to the PRV (creep) leak past.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Similar threads
