• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

CH Pump Problem

Both ports valves are making the noises when turned on and off from the timer; suggests they are fine I thought. System is behaving the same when hot water or heating turned on; boiler fires then shuts off after 20 sec. The heating port valve is new Hanwell 1 year old. It would be odd for both die same time. What's best way to test them?
As the problem is the same on CH and HW, my money is on it being a pump problem. Similar thread https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/boiler-kettling-periodically.651739/post-6136047 not long ago
 
, I unscrewed the whole of the red cup on the hot water AAV and nothing there, see photo attached, is this normal?
leave big screw off pump and turn everything on check if the internal screw is spinning freely its very rare the impellor actually comes off.
pump making an noise / boiler only staying on for 30 seconds no water out of highest point
Do you have a header tank in the loft supplying the boiler ?
Does boiler have a pressure gauge on it ?
it sounds like you do not have enough water in system possible blocked cold feed/ pressure down
 
leave big screw off pump and turn everything on check if the internal screw is spinning freely its very rare the impellor actually comes off.
pump making an noise / boiler only staying on for 30 seconds no water out of highest point
Do you have a header tank in the loft supplying the boiler ?
Does boiler have a pressure gauge on it ?
it sounds like you do not have enough water in system possible blocked cold feed/ pressure down
Pump is quiet no noise at all when boiler is firing.
No gauge on boiler.
Header tank in the loft. Just checked it and it's full of water.


PS .
There were loud grinding noises from the pump one evening last week.
Then short grinding noises 3 days ago and been quiet since.
 
Last edited:
No, from the system, eg one of the drain points, usually near a rad. Ideally get somebody in the loft to check the level in the F/E tank falls as water is drained off. Better than just listening for it
I can turn off the cold water which feeds the header tank first then drain from a rad drain point for few seconds, then lock the drain point and check if header tank level gone down, am I right?
If so then turn the water back on to fill tank.
 
I can turn off the cold water which feeds the header tank first then drain from a rad drain point for few seconds, then lock the drain point and check if header tank level gone down, am I right?
If so then turn the water back on to fill tank.
Yes, that's fine, and has the advantage you can tip the drained water back in the F/E tank, saves wasting any inhibitor.
 
do it for more than a few seconds but a minute /90 seconds should do it
Thanks I will do it on Saturday. Two observations, re photos attached:
1. The magnet is sticking to the copper pipes, does it mean anything?
2. There is a service valve open only half way from day one, does it matter?
IMG_7795 (1).jpeg


IMG_7797 (1).jpeg
 
Magnet sticking to pipework = crud than needs to be removed.
The valve appears to be a bypass don't touch it will leak for fun.
magnets sticking to more than one pipe, 15mm and 22m pipes, how to remove crud, manual flush?
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top