Advice -Levelling upstairs floor after settled subsidence?

[bilabonic]

Hi all

Renovating one of my properties I purchased 15 years with subsidence at the rear extension (28 years old). Property is over 120 years old.

When I first purchased it I made do by literally screwing 2x1 roofing battens at the back extension on top of the existing floorboards/cut packers/wedges form same. Screwed them down into boards and covered with 18mm 2400x600mm chipboard.

I'm now in a position to do it properly and the there has been no movement since I done above.

There is a fall of 2" / 2.5" over a span of 3.7m.

I have take all the old temp levelling I put in quickly when purchased and now want to go directly onto existing joists to level it....

What are my options?
I did consider furrings but they are a set degree/slope.

I also want to go on top of existing rafters to prevent t noise/movement and perhaps use some composite glue as well as screwed/nailed.

Cheers

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Can the existing floor joists be levelled up, if this is a ground floor?

 

[cdbe]

Just screw strips of chipboard to the side (or both sides of each joist. There won't be any noise or movement if you do it properly.

 

[foxhole]

Take up floor and sister joists to level , lay new floor. Though a slight slope would not bother me unduly as long as it’s flat.

 

[bilabonic]

Can the existing floor joists be levelled up, if this is a ground floor?

Not ground floor.

 

[bilabonic]

Take up floor and sister joists to level , lay new floor. Though a slight slope would not bother me unduly as long as it’s flat.

No way can I take up the existing joists.

I've removed all floorboards.
It now runs 6m by as above taking in a bathroom and landing.

Easiest option is to cross existing joists instead of laying:cutting a a peice of timber on top of each existing one..

I just want it to be quiet and solid.

 

[StephenStephen]

The much easier option is to sister the existing joists, as has been suggested.

If it was mine I'd probably fix a level joist to one side of each joist, and ply to the other - (it seems a bit tall for just 2 sheets of ply, but a joist on both sides would be overkill).
...and worth bearing in mind that I'm just an amateur.

 

[foxhole]

No way can I take up the existing joists.

I've removed all floorboards.
It now runs 6m by as above taking in a bathroom and landing.

Easiest option is to cross existing joists instead of laying:cutting a a peice of timber on top of each existing one..

I just want it to be quiet and solid.

You obviously didn’t read or understand my suggestion .

 

[StephenStephen]

Maybe a picture will help...

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

You obviously didn’t read or understand my suggestion .

I suspect the OP was replying to my suggestion, of levelling the joists up, if it was a ground floor. Obviously, not a sensible option if there is a ceiling below it.

 

[foxhole]

I suspect the OP was replying to my suggestion, of levelling the joists up, if it was a ground floor. Obviously, not a sensible option if there is a ceiling below it.

But he quoted my post .

 

[cdbe]

Rips of 22mm flooring grade chipboard are by far the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Absolutely solid.

 

[robinbanks]

I did consider furrings but they are a set degree/slope.

It's trivial to cut your own. Buy a circ saw. Buy some long timber

Measure the length you want, and the fall (you say 2" to nothing over 3.7m), then mark the long timber with that. Screw another length of timber to it whatever consistent distance is the distance the saw blade is away from the edge of the saw plate (if the blade is 27mm away from the plate edge, screw the one timber to the other, 27mm away from the line you marked) then run the cut. If your circ saw blade is very thin, cut max 20mm at a time

The next firring can be made by cutting the wood you've just cut, parallel to its remaining factory edge

--

All this aside, if you have the space to glue and screw a 4" strip of ply(3.7m long) to either side of your joist starting at sticking up 2" and finishing at sticking up 0, then the joist is still sloping but it has extended sides that are level - easier if there aren't a lot of noggins
You can see this is cdbe's pic:

The chipboard is proud about 10mm at one end and 20mm the other; regardless what the joist does, even if it's bowed like a banana, this levels it out

 

[bilabonic]

Cheers guys.

I'm heading there this afternoon to kick the ceiling below through as obviously that is out. (It's lathe Covered with board).

I have the tools and even a laser level so I'll bang that on and send a pic. Also have a circ saw.

I did once level the floors by just going on top/roofing battens/loads wedges/new chipboard boards.
It was very noisey/creaking when walked on! But as I stated it was a rush job....

Looks like I will do as above and rip down a load of 6x2 or 6x2.
I also notice that they also use foam adhesive on flooring so thinking of using that also.
I want it solid this time.

Will post a pic later when I've ripped ceiling down.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I'm heading there this afternoon to kick the ceiling below through as obviously that is out. (It's lathe Covered with board).

In which case, no good reason not to revise the joist heights by packing the ends up/lowering, to level them.