Flow and Return pipes in loft

[Mini1961]

Hi all
Please could you help me out i am no plumber and thought id try to put in the heating pipes in my self build, i have a solid floor with a 50mm space for insulation and originally was going to run all pipe through battens and insulation through out hse, but thought id get a company in to check and he said id better off coming from above, with a down and up with the flow and returns, it's a five bed bungalow with 17 rads is this ok and can i do it with push fit all round, thanks hope it makes sense

Mini1961

 

[Dan Robinson]

It would work, but unless you are burrying the pipes in the walls it might look a bit ugly. The saving grace here is that it is a Bungalow.

If you are running them through the loft it will save you a lot of work; but remember to put automatic air vents (I like the Flamco self sealing ones) on the primaries and also to put drain cocks on the rads. Something like this .

You can run it in plastic & pushfit, but any visible pipes should be in copper for strength and appearance.

I use Polypipe and Tectite for non soldered stuff. The fittings are expensive but you can feel the quality.

Don't forget your programmable room stat - Honeywell CM601 or 907 is probably the best at the moment.

 

[sambotc]

Hi mate,

Boths have pro's and con's neither is IMO the right/wrong way of doing it.

Pipes in loft will be more prone to freezing, if in plastic, more likely to be chewed through by mice etc. You'll probably use more pipe also by going up in the loft. Saying that you will have more access to pipe in loft than under floor if you get amy problems later down the line. I presume you would be boxing in the drop's of pipework from loft to floor level? If so you still have access problems to some pipework.

One idea may be if feasible, to use plastic pipe under the floor, but with no join's under the floor which isnt accessible. Maybe have a manifold type idea where all the Tee's join in the same area, with an access panel?

Did they mention why they suggested it, without seeing the house it's awkward to comment to much.

HTH Sam

 

[Mini1961]

Thanks guys, sorry forgot to mention it is a timber frame so pipes would be clipped to studs in rockwall, would the central heating pump pump it all round ok having to go 2.4mtr at every rad, cheers

Mini1961

 

[Dan Robinson]

It should be OK but which boiler/pump are you using?

 

[Mini1961]

Thinking of a worchester bosh oil exterior condensing no idea on any thing else yet, as i say im no plumber

 

[Dan Robinson]

I don't know if those boilers have their own pump, but it they don't and you're in doubt I would fit a spearate 15-60 Grunfos, but mount the service vavels for a 180mm long pump - then should you need a bigger push you change change it for a 25-55 instead. In the mean time you just use a 50mm extender.


If the boiler comes with its own pump then you either take it or leave it; or as I did today ('cos the system needs more push than the boiler's pump) just wire the extra pump up to the controls rather than the boiler.

 

[clf-gas]

Yes Dan they have there own circulator.
Not a bad piece of kit either
http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/index.php?fuseaction=product.literature&con_id=226153

But then it is WB

 

[Dan Robinson]

Fair to middling I'd say, but I put a utility Danesmoor into my dad's cellar not long ago and so far it has done well.

You won't be fitting a 25-55 into it though... However... We have some huge systems running on normal 6m head pumps that I really doubted would cope. As long as the pipe runs are done thoughtfully and air vents placed where needed you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[kevindgas]

have done a few loft run systems and never needed anything bigger than a 15/60 try to set the system up in 2 halves if you can as it will flow/heat up better use 22mm pipes with 15mm drops and if you have a hot water circuit put a single check valve in the heating return just before it joins the cylinder return to stop reverse heating

 

[Mini1961]

have done a few loft run systems and never needed anything bigger than a 15/60 try to set the system up in 2 halves if you can as it will flow/heat up better use 22mm pipes with 15mm drops and if you have a hot water circuit put a single check valve in the heating return just before it joins the cylinder return to stop reverse heating

what do you think about insulating pipes as i will be putting 250mm over it in loft, is there any need, thanks for all your info

Mini1961

 

[Dan Robinson]

Not if they are under the insulation.

Have you looked at this?

Amazing stuff.

Remember not to run any cables under the insulation.

 

[Mini1961]

Not if they are under the insulation.

Have you looked at this?

Amazing stuff.

Remember not to run any cables under the insulation.

Thanks thats a load of my mind, Lighting cable ok to be tacked over rafters though in between the 250mm.

Mini1961

 

[Mini1961]

Hi all, some one has mentioned today about bleed valves, as system would air lock easily, any ideas on how many and positioning,

Cheers

Mini1961

 

[Dan Robinson]

Read my first reply...