Central heating installation, price?

Likewise, a shame you can't recognise laughing faces when it suits you :roll:
Well I did see the joke hence my reply (even though I did add it as an example later, as it implied that it was a really cheap quote) the reply to my comment however didn't realise both you and I were joking! :)
 
I am sometimes said to be quite strict with my replies to some people posting on here.

In this case however, I can see nothing wrong with anything you have said or done!!! ( I also get blamed for sometimes using three exclamation points too! ).

The only slight hesitation I would have is that I expect he is going to be using plastic piping rather than copper. I always prefer copper but others think that plastic is OK.

Tony
 
You are correct, he said he will be using plastic under the floorboards (up and down stairs) and then copper above floorboard level where it could be kicked etc.

Don't quote me on it, but I think he also said from the boiler you have to use 2 foot of copper pipe before going to plastic! Does that sound right?
 
YEP worcester only ask for 600mm of copper/steel before using plastic on the 30si
 
Don't know about WB, so take namsag word for it, but most other manufacturers ask for 1M minimum.
 
I suppose if the inside of the boiler is all in plastic then they might feel just a little embarased to ask for a full 1000 mm of copper!

Tony Glazier
 
I suppose if the inside of the boiler is all in plastic then they might feel just a little embarased to ask for a full 1000 mm of copper!
There are many different types of plastic. :roll:
 
I suppose if the inside of the boiler is all in plastic then they might feel just a little embarased to ask for a full 1000 mm of copper!

There are a few bits of metal in a WB boiler, not much though :lol: :lol:

Manufactures recommend that X amount of copper pipe work need to be run from the boiler, why?
Is there a noticeable difference in pressure or temperature within 1 meter of pipe work? Does the thermal property of plastic vary that much?

We just installed an oil boiler where they supplied 28mm plastic push fit couplings to connect flow/return , didn't use them though.

Personally I only use copper pipe but would be interested to hear why plastic cant be connected directly to boiler ,yet 1 M from boiler its ok.
 
I have always thought that its because the manufacturers are not confident that in a fault condition the temperature at the boiler might not rise above 120°C to the point that plastic piping would be likely to fail.

The black plastic inside the boiler is a different type which will withstand a higher temperature before softening.

Tony
 
Don't know the exact scientific answer to that one, but all I can say is that I have been told it is to do with the temperatures involved if the overheat fails.

I have been told of 2 or 3 oil boilers where they have overheated and melted the plastic pipes, strangely though not on gas boilers.

We all know that the hotter the temp, the less pressure that is needed to burst the plastic pipe.
 
Hepworth said:
Connection to Boilers and Heaters

Where boilers incorporate a high limit cut out thermostat, pump overrun
device, and have connections outside the boiler casing 350mm from the
heat source, direct connection can be made to Hep2O®.
Typically these boilers contain a copper heat
exchanger and are low water content boilers.

Where any one of the above criteria for direct
connection to a boiler cannot be met a
minimum one metre run of copper pipe
should be installed between the boiler and
the start of the Hep2O® system.

In all cases (including instantaneous water
heaters, caravan heaters etc.) care should be taken
to ensure that appliances have the appropriate
thermostatic controls and cut outs to ensure that operating conditions do
not exceed the temperature and pressure limits laid down for Class S
pipe (see Table No. 1, page 3). For any type of back boiler all water
connections should be extended from the appliance to the outside of
the fireplace opening in copper tube.

In these instances, where the heat output may be uncontrolled, a
minimum one metre run of copper pipe should be used between the
boiler and the start of the Hep2O® system.

Any gravity circuit of a solid fuel boiler should always be installed in
copper.

Regulations require that metal pipe be used as discharge pipe from
temperature/pressure relief valves on unvented water heaters, to or from a
tundish or from safety valves on sealed central heating systems. On sealed
systems where the safety valve is not provided within the boiler casing, the
pipe between the safety valve and the boiler should be in copper.

All boiler connections should be made in accordance with the
requirements of BS 5955, Part 8.
.
.
.
Short exposure to temperatures up
to 100ºC resulting from
thermostat/system malfunction will
not cause failure, but may shorten
the long term design life of the
system.

Thermal cycling

Thermal cycling - the rise and fall in
water temperature during normal
operation - also induces different
and additional stresses on pipes and
joints.
 
I have always thought that its because the manufacturers are not confident that in a fault condition the temperature at the boiler might not rise above 120°C to the point that plastic piping would be likely to fail.
The black plastic inside the boiler is a different type which will withstand a higher temperature before softening.
Is that what you think it will do at high temperatures? Soften?

And you appear to have changed your "mind" about the 'embarrassment factor'...

I suppose if the inside of the boiler is all in plastic then they might feel just a little embarased to ask for a full 1000 mm of copper!
:roll:
 
Well, its an interesting thought about plastic in the boiler vs plastic in the pipework.

Most condensers, even oilers, now have plastic flues. An overtemp in the boiler therefore has to be prevented electronically before the flue melts.

I suspect the 1000mm requirement is because not all plastic barrier pipes have the same properties, and also there is nothing to stop someone connecting a plastic pipe to a non-condenser, where overheating is much easier to achieve.
 
You are correct, he said he will be using plastic under the floorboards (up and down stairs) and then copper above floorboard level where it could be kicked etc.

Don't quote me on it, but I think he also said from the boiler you have to use 2 foot of copper pipe before going to plastic! Does that sound right?

ah, thats where the difference in price is coming from. I never use plastic on heating installations having seen shocking installs in new builds. Whatever the manufacturers say, you cannot compare the longevity of an O ring to solder. You should ask him if he would do the job in copper and at what price.

I think G4U is in the right ballpark, but could be more depending on layout of house/quality of boiler and components. If you are on a DIY forum presumably you would lift floorboards and make good any mess. That can lower price.

s
 
Nope, he is doing the lot. I can't remember what I searched for to find this site...think it was something like "central heating installation cost".

As long as everything works and it will last at least ten years, I'm happy :)

Thanks for all the feedback.
 

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