Seized Brake Drum On 1960 Rover P4

I have pulled the car backwards out of the garage for about 10 feet

Herein lies the problem i suspect. Due to the way the shoes work with a leading/trailing edge, i fancy as you have pulled it out, you have drageed a swollen shoe onto the drum.

Saying that, after 8 years, it could just have bonded the drum to the hub face. Does the wheel spin? If not, heat the drum to dry the shoe, let it cool then clump it with a copper hammer.

If the wheel does spin, wd40 between the hub/drum and let it soak.....then copper hammer.

Last time i had one of them, i banger raced it.
 
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I bet there's an Owners' club for them, where people will know.

Some clubs make you join and pay the subs before you can use the forum. I'm in a club like that but the malcontents have formed a breakaway forum that anyone can use.
 
I have pulled the car backwards out of the garage for about 10 feet

Herein lies the problem i suspect. Due to the way the shoes work with a leading/trailing edge, i fancy as you have pulled it out, you have drageed a swollen shoe onto the drum.

Saying that, after 8 years, it could just have bonded the drum to the hub face. Does the wheel spin? If not, heat the drum to dry the shoe, let it cool then clump it with a copper hammer.

If the wheel does spin, wd40 between the hub/drum and let it soak.....then copper hammer.

Last time i had one of them, i banger raced it.

Thanks all for the info. Xenon, the drum was well and truly seized before I moved the car.

Will try some of your suggestions and let you know how I get on.
 
You towed it out backwards so it's nothing to do with leading/trailing edges.
I wouldn't bother soaking anything with WD40 either. Get it onto the road and tow the bloody thing until you hear a thud. Either that or you get the wheel off and use a hammer, it'll free off but you're going to have to work at it.
 
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I take it you've backed off any adjusters for the brake shoes and handbrake linkage that may be pulling the shoes up against the drum.....

Is it possible to unbolt the brake cylinder and handbrake linkage from the backplate, pull the drum complete with shoes forward a bit, then get your favourite prybar in the gap to lever the shoes off the drum?

Had similar with a Triumph TR5 clutch a few years back. In the end we dropped the gearbox and unbolted the pressure plate. Gentle ministration with a lump hammer and bolster chisel (and many mutterd incantations) eventually freed the friction plate from the flywheel and pressure plate.
 
IF U CAN GET THE SCREWS OUT, TRY AN IMPACT DRILL WITH SOMTHING IN THE CHUCK WITH A WIDE HEAD. VIBRATE THE HELL OUT OF IT! sorry for the caps.
 
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