Peugeot 406 "P" reg hand brake drums

[Agile]

This car is generally pretty good but has a problem with both back handbrake drums/shoes. On this model the main brake is a disc with a small drum for the handbrake.

The nearside brake is noisy as if the shoes are worn out and gives little braking effect. The right hand side is not noisy but also has little braking effect. Both cables are free and operating the actuator at the rear of the drums.

Does the central hub nut have to be undone to get the disc/drum off? Like on the 106.

Or is it held on to the rotating hub by phillips or torx screws?

What size socket is required for the hub nuts if they have to come off?

Which direction do each undo ?

How easy is it to get the discs off without a puller? Any tips?

Thanks

Tony

 

[Burnerman]

Memory problems (again) but I think this is what you need....
Disc and drum held on by two torx screws, and there's a rubber plug in the drum to allow you to release the adjuster with a screwdriver (rotating ratchet type) and the disc / drum pulls away with slight hammer encouragement.
If you need to release the central stake nut to remove the hub, its conventional R/H thread and its size is 30mm.
I've just posted this because there have been no answers so far, and I'm delighted to be corrected!
John

 

[Agile]

I assume the torx screws are a similar size and function to the phillips ones on other cars which are often difficult to undo? Even with a hammer operated impact tool?

There have been a few postings about the poor performance of these handbrakes but they are fine on new cars so why do they become so poor when they get older even if the flexible cable tubes are free?

Tony

 

[Burnerman]

That is indeed the purpose of the torx screws - purely a location method.
I use the correct torx bit (3/8" drive), tapped in, and then use my windy gun to undo.
If I suspect a battle is likely, then I heat them up and use plenty of penetrating oil. If you have to drill them out though, no harm is done - but they are handy to keep things together when you put the wheel back on.
John

 

[Agile]

I assume yourt windy gun is an air impact wrench?

I now have my 12 v electric impact wrench and I have a 1/2 reducer to 1/4 hex driver bits.

But what I am lacking is any good quality torx bits which would be able to stand up to the impact driver.

Its another topic but I need to remove the cyl head on my Astra diesel to see whats gone wrong. That has torx ( 42 ) socket caps. Any reason not to use my impact driver just to remove them?

Tony

 

[Burnerman]

Your electric wrench may well work in this situation but of course they lack the high speed impact of air wrenches. I use Halfords 3/8" drive torx bits with mine - I tap them in, connect the windy gun, press hard and pull the trigger. This very rarely fails, and I've never had a bit break. I replace these screws with coppaslip grease and tighten them just over finger pressure.
I wouldn't use air wrenches to undo stretched cylinder head bolts as the chance of snapping them must increase. They should be carefully undone in a spiral pattern anyway.
John

 

[timtheenchanter]

Memory problems (again) but I think this is what you need....
Disc and drum held on by two torx screws, and there's a rubber plug in the drum to allow you to release the adjuster with a screwdriver (rotating ratchet type) and the disc / drum pulls away with slight hammer encouragement.
If you need to release the central stake nut to remove the hub, its conventional R/H thread and its size is 30mm.
I've just posted this because there have been no answers so far, and I'm delighted to be corrected!
John

from memory this seems to be about right.

not sure why these seem to be such a problem in later life, possible because the handbrake isn't part of the normal braking system? so the linkages start to seize up a bit, mine needed a clean/free up every 2 years from 4 years old onwards.

 

[Agile]

Yes, but the linkage is operated every time the h/brake is applied which in London is quite often.

Also I correctly apply the h/brake at traffic lights etc.

My linkage is fine but there is clearly something wrong inside each one which I have got to get to grips with.

I had to do an overhaul of the h/brakes on my 106 about 18 months ago as a cyl was leaking and a lever joint was seized up on the other. I apply silicone grease to the moving parts before refitting and so far its still very good.

Tony

 

[Peter.N.]

My 406 hand brake is pretty useless on steep hills, I have changed the discs/drums which were badly worn as well as the shoes and pads, the linkage is all free and correctly adjusted but they are still no good. Where did you get your shoes? Mine came from ebay, just wondering if the lining material is not up to spec.

Peter