Recent content by chimpboy

Drill a new hole through the bracket

If you are not confident taking the rads off then run a bottle(two if larger system) of sentinel x400 in your system for three weeks. Your system will have to be flushed with mains water then treating with x100. If your system is heavily sludged then I would be calling someone in to sort it out.

I would be looking to get a system cleaner in your system. The magnetite is because your radiators are rotting.

It's not good practice to have high spots on ch or hw pipe work, leads to problems, and is a no no on a vent pipe, cheers

Why didn't the plumber tee the horizontal pipe into the vent further up,strange. No it is not very safe, you going to have a problem with trapped air in the horizontal pipe leading to poor hot water flow or no flow at all, horizontal pipe is meant to be going slightly up hill as well. i would...

You could bung the cold feed and vent, this would cause a vacuum allowing you to work on one pipe at a time. odviously there would still be water in the pipe work so you could not solder you would have to use compression or push fit fittings, this would look a bit naff though. If there is enough...

I've found online rad calcs will vary, to get a more accurate size you would have to do a proper calculation. This means taking into account amongs other things u values of window size/type, wall type, how many external walls, what's above and below, have you got wall insulation ect..... 10000...

Is the noise coming from c/h pipes or hot and cold pipes?

To be fair this happens a lot with older boilers/ valves that havent been touched in years. I tend not to touch the isolation valves on older boilers, i drain water level below boiler instead. I'm afraid you might need new iso valves.

Whoever is fitting your cooker needs to be gas safe, ask them to show you there gas safe card, all engineers carry one. If you are unsure go on the gas safe web site to check them out.

System will almost certainly want draining down and a bit of pipe alteration to suit new rad. Make sure he adds inhibitor when filling, a good quality one like x100 or f1. There is a sticker that comes with the inhibitor this gets filled in and stuck on the boiler.

Not really sure if flushing would make a difference. It sounds like the pipe work that is running through joists/tight to joists has no room for expansion hence creaking noise. I would try and listen where the creaking is coming from get some floor boards up and re notch joists, not a job for...

I would drain the system sweat those straight couplings off a pull two tight offsets with two nice new bits of copper to suit, rad might have to be moved up a bit though, hope this helps

Try these:http://www.shop.lunns.net/flush-valves-nproducts14curpage-2-14-c.asp. They are obsolete now and aren't cheap!

Hi, could you please send me the fault finding powerpoint. Many thanks [email protected]