Hi thanks for all quick responses.
Sorry I will explain further.
I am a plasterer and had to remove a few sockets to re plaster a lounge and one of the sockets that has been used to supply tele etc, was in 1.5mm cable being fed (from what I could tell) from the only other socket in the...
A good way to get it off the ceiling is to skim over it and when you are giving it your final trowel it starts to bubble up and peel off along with the artex that you were trying to cover over. :oops:
Very difficult to identify especially when it's under some other coating!
bunch of fooking idiots. get rid of them and don't pay them any more money. report them to trading standards.
easyfil is meant for filling the joints on boards and as a repair / patching filler as it's lovely to sand.
if they're using it instead of multi finish then it's costing you 6...
offer up board, mark wall where board finishes, use trowel to apply continuous bead of adhesive to wall all around perimeter .
(using a trowel should allow you to apply same amount of muck every time as a rough guide use 1/3 of trowel full but you may need a tad more if the wall is that...
I always do continuous(ish) strips all around the perimeter and every 300 ish floor to ceiling this gives the wall a more 'solid' feel when tapped back and levelled. 1 bag covers 2 and a bit boards. Works out a bit more expensive but theres nothing worse than hollow sounding walls in my opinion.
For tapered edge boards or dry lining there is a corner tape which is stuck with joint adhesive the same as joint tape.
They've got steel reinforced edges which when stuck, finish level with main part of board. (filling is required as with standard jointing where the taper starts and edge of...