Recent content by ed110220

Hi, thanks for your reply. The studs that the pipe is between are only 120mm apart and 55mm thick so will be similar to this, but I could easily reduce the volume of the void further by adding a batten or battens. I'm mainly concerned with the risk of puncture by nailing/screwing/drilling as...

I had my boiler relocated in the loft, and to do this the gas fitter installed the 22mm copper pipe in a stud wall (no I did not do it myself). I had already stripped off the plasterboard. Now I'm ready to reboard the wall, but before I do I'd like to give the pipe some mechanical protection...

I have old style lighting circuits, not sure of the correct name, where each light and each switch is connected back to a central junction box. Does anyone know the correct/standard way of wiring a pair of two way switches for a landing light using 3-core cable with this? All the diagrams I see...

Yeah, I often wonder why I often see TVs mounted high up on a wall sometimes above a fireplace. Looks strange and must give the viewers a crick in the neck. I took out our fireplace and chimney breast to rearrange the living room and avoid this problem. As for sockets, I think it's a good idea...

Yes, the steel staircase is exposed apart from being carpeted (sides, underside, banisters are exposed). It will definitely be in continuity with the steel frame of the house as it is bolted onto a steel beam at the top, and all the steels of the house are bolted together. What I don't know is...

Maybe an odd question, but when I was refurbishing my hallway the other day I found an old electrical cable bonded to the staircase at one end and running to the area of the meter and CU at the other. No longer attached at that end. From the look of it dated to when the house was built in 1949...

Thanks all, turned out it was a loose connection. The live conductor coming out of the RCBO hadn't even been screwed in at all. I thought the electrician was in a hurry when he fitted the consumer unit!

Thanks all, no, no other problems apart from the cooker circuit. Seemed a bit strange to me that the power failed on it but it hasn't tripped. I checked the cooker switch where the oven and hob are wired in for loose connections but it's still all tight. Just remembered that the electrician did...

While cooking dinner the oven and hob switched off. I checked the consumer unit and the RCBO for the cooker hadn't tripped. It still flips off when you press the test button. There is definitely no power in the cooker circuit as the cooker switch is the type with a socket and that doesn't work...

The cables aren't supported as they are replacements put in above an original ceiling by lifting some floor boards above and pulling them through. So presumably it's not bad practice to support them in such a way that they can't be pulled through again?

I'm having my kitchen ceiling replaced so have taken down the plasterboard. All the cables above are now hanging down and will be in the way of the plasterer when he puts up the new ceiling. Should I clip them to the joists to keep them out of his way or use some other method so they can still...

Hi, do you cover the Bath area or is that too far from your part of the world? I'm looking for quotes to get my house reroofed with a metal standing seam type roof covering.

Works perfectly, thanks again.

Thanks Stem! That was quick :) I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Hi all, wondering if anyone can help with some advice on how to wire a Salus RT300RF thermostat for a 230V application. The catalogue description says it is suitable but the manual only gives a volt free wiring diagram. It's not for a boiler, I want to use it to control the 230V fan in a...