Recent content by GasSafeTony

It sounds like a dirty pilot nozzle, a good clean during a service could possibly sort the problem out, if not it may need replacing. If the pilot isn't making good contact with the Thermocouple it will cut the gas supply off.

If you don't get a good service engineer, with respect, you're goin to pay for an engineer to go to a fault paging chart. Then just fail to find the fault, phone the manufacturers CS team to be told to test for continuity at certain points on the pcb before he or she can diagnose the problem.

I love that one customers try and pull. And the other one, "it was working ok before".

I had exactly the same problem last week with a glow worm back boiler. Was scratching my head, checked all the basic things, even made a thread on Here for help but just got abuse from folk (specially agile). Turned out the old lady had been hoovering around the fire and had pulled out the...

Also could be discharging out of the pressure relief valve due to a faulty expansion vessel.

If it didn't push through when all working rads were closed and the culprit ones (one at a time) were left open, they made need repiping. Drop two new circs to rads in the corner of the room, trunk (cap) them they dont look so ugly. Or you could probably spend the same amount of money on a...

Sounds to me like the pump needs taking apart and greasing. this should be one every year when serviced, along with the nozzle being changed.

You wouldn't need to unbalance it, just close the radiator control side off, trv. Or just leave it to engineer when he returns ha

Had a similar problem like this before and the culprit was a condense pipe leaking every time the boiler condensed....obviously when other engineers checked there was no sign of a leak as it only condensed when boiler was on and every 15 mins.

Same with the Worcesters, had to take the pressure off the system many a time and take out the automatic vent and turn it upside down and reset it.

No probs, you could try and shift it by closing all rad valves and leaving only the noisy one open, but it then might bother you else where. Lol

Ok, are you familiar with pressing to overheat button on the front panel under a black cap? Also the burner lockout button which is located inside the boiler which might be illuminated red and require resetting by pressing? If there is a fuse, it will be a glass 1.5 amp. I only install...

I'm guessing a bit of $hit has moved or gottom into the system pal.

You should search the forums, this question has been answered a thousand times.,

iron grabs the Oxygen from the water, makes Iron Oxide (= rust) and you're left with hydrogen - which is why you possibly keep having to vent your sealed system. If you put a corrosion inhibitor in your system it will stop the reaction, and you won't have to bleed your rads any more. £10 to £15...