Hi guys
I have to make up levels prior to tiling and after UFH cement boards are laid. This is so the finished floor level is flush with the sliding door aluminium frame.
After the UFH boards 18mm I have 35mm to get a flush level. The tile is 11mm, 3mm DITRA and 6mm adhesive leaves me with...
Hi guys
Quick question, would Celotex type board be OK to use under a concrete pad outside? Reason I ask to raise the level up 75mm will cost a lot less and use less concrete as I need to raise nearly 200mm.
If so do I need a DPM underneath and on top of it? The final finish is a porcelain...
Fantastic thanks guys!
Might be a stupid question but I have two Catnic lintels going spare after removing the wall. Could these not be used upside down on the floor to bridge the cavity? The lintel has insulation in the upstand.
Thanks guys.
Woody, do you have a diagram/sketch of what you’re describing? I think I understand but not sure about the slate.
Take a course off inner leaf. Run dpm over it across cavity and up the external leaf and out. Doors will sit on said dpm. Then put some 25mm board against the outer...
Hi guys
What’s the proper way to close this floor cavity? I’m taking out the outer leaf shortly to fit aluminium sliding doors that will be cill less sitting on the outer leaf. They will be flush with the internal and external floor.
The door frame is only 115m wide so the cavity gap needs...
The doors are designed for flush threshold yeah. I was going to sit the frame cill less on lead and leave a small gap before the concrete pad for the air vents. It’s tricky using a drain under the tiles as the tiles are only 10mm so they can’t cantilever over the drain. I’d prefer not to see a...
Evening
I’m about to install sliding aluminium doors at the rear of my house and I want to raise the outdoor terrace by 150mm as I’m running a 10mm porcelain tile inside and outside.
I would like some advice on drainage and the air vents as the internal floor is block and beam.
I was...
I’m in the middle of a kitchen refurb and looking to have the electrics redone and relocated.
I have all these switches in the photo and I hoped I could put them all into an 8 gang switch on one panel in one of my new tower unit cupboards where it is easily accessible to isolate the appliance...
Guys I am now going ahead with this work and wanted to ask a couple of follow up questions. Thanks to those who replied above.
The wall is 4200 wide by 2450 high. Would it be possible to fit doors to that size by having the lintel sit on the intersecting walls or would this punch a hole into my...
Thanks for the advice guys.
What do you reckon it would cost for supply and fit of a new staircase self supporting perhaps the zigzag type?
Can you recommend any places in the Midlands that do such a thing?
Hi chaps
I need a quick solution to this one please. The newell post that goes to the ground in the photos I want to remove, not completely but cut it higher up so I can board the back of the stairs.
Is there a solution or would I need a whole new staircase to achieve this?
Cheers
Hi guys
Is there anyone that can give me an idea of the loading capacity of my floor now that I have finished it. There's finnjoists 58 x 240 x 4100m spaced at 600 centres (end two joists are 400 centres) sitting on joist hangers. I've put down 25mm plywood in half the room where the power rack...
Hi guys
Please could you recommend screws and glue from Screwfix for the job? I need to buy it ASAP to do the job on the weekend.
Cheers
Mikeinthemidlands
Thanks for the replies guys. The rack is about 100kg, 150kg of weight then me so maybe 350kg? There will be no hitting the floor or anything as most exercises will be within the rack which will be bolted to the floor.
Should I include noggins?
Is it worth putting in acoustic insulation. Just...