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Merging multiple switches into one...

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by mikeinthemidlands, 1 May 2019.

  1. mikeinthemidlands

    mikeinthemidlands

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    I’m in the middle of a kitchen refurb and looking to have the electrics redone and relocated.

    I have all these switches in the photo and I hoped I could put them all into an 8 gang switch on one panel in one of my new tower unit cupboards where it is easily accessible to isolate the appliance but out of the way visually.

    I’ve attached a photo of each switch.

    I clearly know nowt about electrics but is this possible?

    Thanks
    Mikeinthemidlands
     

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  2. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Yes, it's possible - you could have them all in the bedroom if you want.

    It would mean a lot of wiring to route all the supplies and return cables.

    However -

    The boiler switch should be near the programmer or boiler and must switch off all of the heating system.
    If you consider the cooker switch as an emergency switch then, in my opinion, one switch should cover both oven and hob (and hood) and it should be visible and readily accessible - and of course rated high enough; is the hob switch in the picture so rated?

    The others aren't really necessary but may come in handy if an appliance develops a fault.

    So, it's up to you.
     
  3. ericmark

    ericmark

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    Although you can get 20 amp switches the cooker normally is more than 20 amp so unlikely you can have cooker with rest although there may be a make which goes over 20A.

    The grid system allows switches and fuse holders all in the same back box, but likely needs a deep back box and all very good when doing a re-wire but to move could be more trouble that it's worth.

    As to what an electrician is prepared to do, that's up to him, there is some lee way as to how regulations are interpreted. But in real terms you don't need any switches, you could switch off using the MCB/RBCO in the consumer unit, only rotating equipment with a motor over a fixed size needs an isolator within sight of the machine, however common sense tells one a switch to defrost a freezer without needing to empty the fridge part to pull the unit out makes sense.

    If you have an earth leakage fault having to drag out washer, etc to unplug it to test what has gone wrong is not really what you want, in the kitchen here where the consumer unit is in the kitchen by the door with fire or any other emergency simple enough to remove power, but rest of house the consumer unit is under the stairs, not a good place to isolate in an emergency, so you need to do a risk assessment for your house, the electrician who wired the kitchen in this house clearly did not think about what he was doing, the hob isolator is directly behind the hob, so a chip pan fire one would not reach isolator but as said CU is easy to reach.

    Be it weight loose on washing machine, or tumble drier on fire, you want the option to turn off at some remote point but not too remote, but not covered by regulations often a gas cooker has no isolator even when it has a higher fire risk. It is up to you to work out what you want and compare the cost so decide what your going to have.
     
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