Recent content by RrogerD

Use a grinder and take the top off the old spike / screw. Drill a new hole slightly down (or up) from the previous hole. Be sure to be close enough that the fitting covers the old hole. You'll need a tile drill (6mm likely). Take it slow and do not apply pressure otherwise you'll crack the...

I've made a start in scraping off all of the old paint. There is moss spores on the surface (the black bumps) but also, mould on the render beneath the paint. I purchased some of the 'wet and forget' stuff but, it says, 'can take up to 12 months to be fully effective', or words to that effect...

Update: Googling it says that one shouldn't seal behind (I was thinking some sort of wide seal / trim) as it needs air flow for cooling. What I've done is sat it on 10mm packers, so it in fact sits proud of the wall. I've obviously sealed up the hole in the tiles where both the electric cables...

I'm replacing my 8.5kw electric shower. However, with the water inlet slotted into the existing elbow, the whole unit sits proud of the wall by about 8-10mm. I can pack it full of sealant all around but seems a bit messy. Is there such thing as a unit back plate? Perhaps made of white plastic to...

Google or ChatGPT. It involves hammering in the wedges further and / or fitting more blocks where the tread meets the riser.

How do I resolve this? In hot weather, as we're currently having, the door has expanded so much that it won't close. The handle itself is catching on the frame. I can't seem to see anywhere on the hinges for adjustment and if I did, I know that it'd be leaking come the cold weather I suspect the...

Is it only the first row being retiled? Normally, you'd start at the worktop and work upwards

OP is being anal. It makes zero difference. Go with what looks OK. The more important point is making sure that fittings attach to a joist.

Yes, but the thin felt type not the thick stuff.

If you're replacing the floor covering then this should be done before reattaching skirting and architraves. The floor sits underneath. Otherwise, you're left with a gap around the edges needing a quadrant of some sort.

Thank you. Useful tip.

Thanks. I did this(Googled) of course. They all seem to be apply and wait a few days. If they work, or not, I guess nothing ventured. Cheers

It's south west. It sits in the sun pretty much all day every day. However, we are next to a heritage steam railway. I think the soot smuts don't help things. Thanks for the idea for cladding but it isn't going to happen. I just want to clean and re-paint.

Hi, I don't think that I have asked this before so here goes... The external painted render is mouldy. In the past I have scrubbed with bleachy-water and re-painted but it re-appeared. Another time, I scraped the top surface coat of paint off, revealing mouldy paint underneath. I then did the...

Try Google. It says, the firrings are fitted to the bottom of the joint rather than the top