Recent content by RrogerD

Personally i think that I would cut open the floor and have a look. Better that then get all the floor down only to find that you have a leak later. Perhaps use a hole-saw and put a camera down?

I put some light oil on the movable parts and replaced the whole lot. Sadly, it's still the same. It's the hooks that are not retracting fully and so catch on the frame as the door is closing. If I open it fast, then they seem to return ok. Would this be due to the mechanism simply being worn...

What should I use please to lubricate the 3-point locking mechanism on my aluminium external front door? I assume that it is the same as a upvc door mechanism. I would have used grease but then thought WD-40 and then maybe, graphite powder. Thanks In hindsight,I probably didn't need to remove...

It's boxed-in, inside. If using an AAV it doesn't need to exit above the windows then it'd certainly be easier to fit and maintain than the current setup.

I'm aware that external AAVs are available, my query is: can I use one to replace the current (rotted) S&V and if so, can I get away without it needing to exit above the highest window? As per the pics, I'm dealing with a high, 3-storey building. Access to replace the cast-iron pipe will need...

When I did a couple of the rotted joists in the corner of the downstairs front room I just chopped out all of the bad stuff and then overlapped a couple of feet into the good. I did use coach bolts and plate washes, wrenching them up good and tight. I also supported the new pieces with bricks...

Thanks for answering. I don't recall exactly but possibly, Wethersfield smooth masonry paint. I've found a tub of the stuff in the garage. What about the removing of the old stuff? A scraper and bleach again I guess?

Any thoughts on what I can do to remedy this please? The lower panels, I attended to a couple of years ago. I took a scraper to them, removing the paint as best I could back to the render and then re-painted. It seems that the mold is within the paint. The upper panels I just washed with bleach...

My wife (quite the horticulturalist) seems to think that the would good down deeper than the concrete so would be impeded.

Sorry, I have that wrong. They're not 600 deep, they're about 300 deep and about 300 wide. It's a bit hard to tell as covered in soil either side. Don't know where I got the othe figures from, in my head. :-/

It's about 6m in length. It's an old stone / brick wall that developed a crack and so have taken it down. We want to replace with a hedge and so need the footings out to provide space for root growth etc.

Do you not think that it 'could' be done, but with fair bit of hard work? I'm not expecting it to go through like butter. More like just chipping away bit by bit. Currently, I have been using a lump-hammer and chisel. Working in from one edge. Surely anything has to be better than that! I stand...

What size jack-hammer do I need for breaking up strip-footings? They are about 400 wide by about 600 deep. I will be hiring. Likely, 110v electric. Hoping that I can do it myself in the one day. Thanks

Brilliant! That gives me some reassurance. Thank you.

I think it's movement due to clay. It's an 1890s semi with extension built in 1964 I believe, they moved-in in 1960. The long vertical join / crack was there when I was young in the 70s. It hasn't gotten any worse. In all reality we're not going to be getting anything 'repaired'. My mother is...