Recent content by Spr0cket

That makes sense. I'd thought it less than ideal to have the vent straight after the pump output. I'll get an accurate measure of the tank height above pump and circle back. Thank you!

I've checked pipework with magnet - all seems clear from that inspection. It is a Grundfoss UPS3 pump. It's sat in airing cupboard on 1st floor, with the F&E tank located directly above in the loft area. The vent pipe extends maybe 8 inches above the top of the cistern - so approximately 12...

I've recently moved in to a new (to me) property - circa early 80's build. It has in the last 18 months had the hot and cold taps converted from gravity to sealed system The heating circuits have remained on gravity feed from the remaining small F&E tank in the loft. The system has a lot of...

Sleepers would likely be the simplest - with reclaimed oak likely be the cheapest option down that path. You could use RSJ's as vertical supports to drop the sleepers into horizontally or use more sleepers inserted vertically which you secure the horizontals to - a bit like super sized fence...

I've also used these folks several times and found them to be very competitively priced with a good product range: http://www.doorhandlecompany.co.uk/TUBULAR-LATCHES-AND-TUBULAR-DEADBOLTS And the roses on the last set of levers I fitted from there were 54 mm diameter, with bolt through...

The MOT material tends to interlock much better than standard ballast does. Hence Ballast typically has to be used with a binder (Cement) to form a stable or strong base / material. The stones in gravel tend to be rounded and don't self bind, whereas MOT material tends to have straighter edged...

Yes, try inserting them one side of frame at a time. They are typically tight enough to suspend the frame in the carcass opening without inserting the screws - to help get a "feel" for how snug they should be. They actually "bite" into those pre drilled insertion holes when you pressure...

I assume these are the small brackets with a pin whihc is slightly knruled / toothed that insers into the frame (in pre drilled insertion holes) and the carcass securing face is predrilled for a small csk screw to be affixed through. If these are the items I suspect, they are best secured by...

I used a circular saw on ours, allowed for mitering etc at angled corners too. Will need a 200mm+ saw blade though to make it through on a 90deg. cut (assuming sleepers are 6" across the shortest face dimension). They can be prone to making a chainsaw blunt quickly as they often have embedded...

Use some stainless washers between brick and timber too - to pack the ledger out by 10mm or so - allows mositure to run down wall or off flooring edge. PS> These fixings in Screwfix are around 30% of the price that most sheds charge. They alos do some large washers to suit.

Are you sure the sleepers are 300mm, even on edge, most sleepers new or reclaimed come up at 250mm Either way, as ColJackl has suggested, drill down 50 or 100 mm depending upon that sleeper height and insert these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Timber-Drive-Screw/invt/190113 Hopefully easy...

If you raise that - looks to me like the back edge along the fencing will need suport at very joist, potenially still being prone toome flex andmovement as there's no beam / ledger strip tying that back edge together. You might get away with it, though I'd simply tie it all together with a...

Stepping them will look fine, so long as the elevation from each to the next is kept consistent. Take a look at: http://www.railwaysleeper.com/Andy%20Kyle%27s%20railway%20sleepers%20&%20%20landscaping.htm Less elevation than you are seeking but similar principle. Circular saw is the...

I am in the process of landscaping the garden, with an intent at completion of having a small log cabin. I'd like this to have electric and data connection to the house. Cable run will be approximately 17 metres and I am assuming S.W.A. buried would be the simplest method with a reaosnable...

I've had some great results with Ronseals Diamond satin varnish on oak. Dries to a super tough finish and is water based for ease of application and clean up. http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/diamond-hard-varnish I'm sure it may not be the choice of all, however I've just finished...