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Sleepers would likely be the simplest - with reclaimed oak likely be the cheapest option down that path. You could use RSJ's as vertical supports to drop the sleepers into horizontally or use more sleepers inserted vertically which you secure the horizontals to - a bit like super sized fence...

I've also used these folks several times and found them to be very competitively priced with a good product range: http://www.doorhandlecompany.co.uk/TUBULAR-LATCHES-AND-TUBULAR-DEADBOLTS And the roses on the last set of levers I fitted from there were 54 mm diameter, with bolt through...

The MOT material tends to interlock much better than standard ballast does. Hence Ballast typically has to be used with a binder (Cement) to form a stable or strong base / material. The stones in gravel tend to be rounded and don't self bind, whereas MOT material tends to have straighter edged...

Yes, try inserting them one side of frame at a time. They are typically tight enough to suspend the frame in the carcass opening without inserting the screws - to help get a "feel" for how snug they should be. They actually "bite" into those pre drilled insertion holes when you pressure...

I assume these are the small brackets with a pin whihc is slightly knruled / toothed that insers into the frame (in pre drilled insertion holes) and the carcass securing face is predrilled for a small csk screw to be affixed through. If these are the items I suspect, they are best secured by...

I used a circular saw on ours, allowed for mitering etc at angled corners too. Will need a 200mm+ saw blade though to make it through on a 90deg. cut (assuming sleepers are 6" across the shortest face dimension). They can be prone to making a chainsaw blunt quickly as they often have embedded...

Use some stainless washers between brick and timber too - to pack the ledger out by 10mm or so - allows mositure to run down wall or off flooring edge. PS> These fixings in Screwfix are around 30% of the price that most sheds charge. They alos do some large washers to suit.

Are you sure the sleepers are 300mm, even on edge, most sleepers new or reclaimed come up at 250mm Either way, as ColJackl has suggested, drill down 50 or 100 mm depending upon that sleeper height and insert these: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Timber-Drive-Screw/invt/190113 Hopefully easy...

If you raise that - looks to me like the back edge along the fencing will need suport at very joist, potenially still being prone toome flex andmovement as there's no beam / ledger strip tying that back edge together. You might get away with it, though I'd simply tie it all together with a...

Stepping them will look fine, so long as the elevation from each to the next is kept consistent. Take a look at: http://www.railwaysleeper.com/Andy%20Kyle%27s%20railway%20sleepers%20&%20%20landscaping.htm Less elevation than you are seeking but similar principle. Circular saw is the...

I am in the process of landscaping the garden, with an intent at completion of having a small log cabin. I'd like this to have electric and data connection to the house. Cable run will be approximately 17 metres and I am assuming S.W.A. buried would be the simplest method with a reaosnable...

I've had some great results with Ronseals Diamond satin varnish on oak. Dries to a super tough finish and is water based for ease of application and clean up. http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/diamond-hard-varnish I'm sure it may not be the choice of all, however I've just finished...

Rutlands have a selection of step adaptors: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/machinery-&-accessories/dust-extraction/stepped-adaptors Would likely need to join a couple together for what you seek. Just curious have you tried the planer to the extractor (in a make shift connection). The last...

The Stanley one listed though wouldn't work as well for terminal screws as it would not clear the insulation shroud around the screw - the wedge blades work well in such instances as they can often be selected in width that is no wider than the screw head slot width - therefore, no protrusion.

I believe you're looking for a quick wedge screwdriver: http://www.longs.co.uk/acatalog/Longs_Shopping_Site_Screw_holders__starters__locators_118.html

I can recommend the Bosch models - I have a 10" version that is extremely powerful with great repeatable accuracy - I seldom make test cuts any longer as it's always set spot on as I left it last time. The Makitas seem to share some of the performance keys such as a heavy table with chamfered...

I've had one of the Powermax 7.2 for a monh or two. Had a lot of use already and already wondering why I went for the dual battery pack as it charges quickly and has heaps in reserve. I went for it over the bosch 10v jobbie simply for it's compact sze and the included right angle attachment...

Thanks all. Thermo - I figured this was the "simplest"in terms of construction needs - plus I can go with reclaimed sleepers of non prime grade to keep costs even lower given they will be buried or not seen. One fnal question - is backfill with gravel etc required as well as some form of...

Sounds simple enough. I'll just buy a couple and some glue to stick 'em together :) I have no idea currentlt whay method of construction would be required to make the structure strong enough and sufficiently robust - hence the request for options and advice. Would brick / block be cheaper...

Thanks again - I'm sold on the idea. How deep should I be sinking the vertical bearers if they are to retain a wall 3ft in height composed of horizontal spans?And the concrete footings, are these simply to retain the vertically installed sleeper - ie the concrete doesn't need to span the...