Recent content by Tewy81

I have a five year old tall modern radiator which is corroding. The other identical radiators are all fine however. What causes this? Is it bimetallic corrosion and what would be my best option. It’s not leaking yet so I would like to fix this instead of paying £££ for a new rad. Cheers Andy

i have an outside pir light that’s really annoying me, it was installed when my extension was done by an electrician last year, the cable comes straight from fuse box to light. There is not a switch for it. It just stays on, literally as soon as it flicks off after 3 minutes it comes straight...

I am using a 150w heating matt, by living heat. It's a 20m2 matt. I am laying on 6mm insulation board(it's blue) think it's called Xps/styrofoam. Living heat said the screed needs to be primed with a "suitable primer" I can't use 10mm insulation as it will be too high where it meets bifold doors...

I need to prime a screeded floor ready to put the undertile insulation down, any recommended products for this?

I am about to cover a large soffit overhang on my extension in 19 x 140mm cedar cladding. What would be the best method of fixing? Should I use stainless nails? I would like the contemporary look without visible nail heads. Thanks Andy

I am currently converting my garage, I have insulated the floor and I now need to lay an 18mm floor to tile on. Building inspector suggested chipboard but as it's going to be a shower room and utility room, I am not sure now, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Hi, I need to fix Tyvek to my internal garage walls (Block work) how do i achieve this? Is there a special fixing of tape required? Thanks Andy

Hi, I'm converting my garage, i need to insulate the walls. I have lots of DRITHERM 37 left over from building work, is it acceptable to insulate the stud walls with this? The building inspector will be checking before i board over as its linked to new extension. Thanks Andy

Thanks Woody, I have just double checked this, it isn't actually a cavity wall, its a 220mm stud wall(completely filled with either rockwool or celotex, then theres 25mm celotex(or similar) across the whole wall then double plasterboard.

You got me worried now Woody, i was all up for building this but have my doubts now especially if it could be less effective than a singlle 100mm wall. I've got the celotex ready and was all prepped to build it, presuming double wall = double sound/heat insulation.

He said because the small store room has a door opening to outside, its better to do a double skin wall, he said "its in essence a cavity wall and requires thermal properties" i've got the timber to do it but i dont know what gap to leave between them, surely not 100mm, would 50mm be ok? Thanks...

I'm converting my garage, my architect has detailed a stud wall to seperate store room from utility room using 4x2 timbers. This wall is double thickness. what gap should i leave between the 2 walls as its in effect a cavity wall. Would 50mm be ok? Andy

I have just built an extension on my house, i need to cover the rsj above the rear bifold doors, but am not sure whats the best way to go about this. Can you stick plasterboard to the underside of a steel beam? Is it standard to just bang noggings inside the rsj and screw into them? Thanks Andy

ahh ok thanks for that was looking at it wrong, ive found a versapanel which at 10mm offers a 60 min fire gap and is class "o" for building regs. Think thats the stuff £70 for 2 sheets though ...

Thanks for that, my local Travis Perkins stocks masterboard, it only has 6mm thick which offers 30 mins fire rating, alond with my insulation, intumastic sealant, plasterboard and skim this should give me the desired 60 mins ? or am i wrong? Andy