HW & CH come on
- Thread starter tappy
- Start date
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May be you could give us some pointers first, such as make & model of boiler, what controls you have etc etc?
The boiler is an Ideal Classic NF60, regularly serviced and works fine. The valve is as described previously. The heating pump is fine too (only a year old) and this started happening (the rads heating up when the water is on) about 4 months ago. The owner had been stacking household items on the valve (loo rolls and towels) which I told them to stop. It seemed to clear up but has now started again. The controls are all original (ideal digital progammer which is new and the themostat is manual but working as well).
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where ???
which was
or is it just me
Normal cylinder operation with the valve situated above the pump. The controller is a Drayton Lifestyle LP522 and is a brand new replacement for the exact same old model. The valve is a tri port as previously described and the boiler is also noted in the previous post.
So the rads get hot when the hot water is on, they also work if only the heating is on and everything works if it is all turned on ie heating and water, so the problem is why do the rads get hot when only the water is on? The "switch" on the side of the valve appears to be moving as required ie it moves to W for the water, M for both and H for Heating but the problem remains. There is also another lever at the end of teh valve and I do not know what that does.
So the rads get hot when the hot water is on, they also work if only the heating is on and everything works if it is all turned on ie heating and water, so the problem is why do the rads get hot when only the water is on? The "switch" on the side of the valve appears to be moving as required ie it moves to W for the water, M for both and H for Heating but the problem remains. There is also another lever at the end of teh valve and I do not know what that does.
Just thought I'd mention that my Daughter had that problem briefly, it was a faulty bypass valve as I recall
Rather unlikely
C
cmother1
I'd say its almost certain to be the 3 way valve. I've had 4 Hostmanns that did exactly this (from new!) and the old Landis one before that when a microswitch packed up in it. Take the lid off the valve and observe what happens as you select the various combinations. For HW only the valve should close under spring pressure. If the valve does close and the radiators still get hot, it's probably something obstructing the valve from closing properly.
The lever at the end is to manually set the valve in mid-position for draining down. You should see some movement in it if C/H only is selected. For H/W only the lever will be solid.
The lever at the end is to manually set the valve in mid-position for draining down. You should see some movement in it if C/H only is selected. For H/W only the lever will be solid.
Try posting info on present thread unless you think we like trawling through your previous problems just to help solve your current ones.
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