Draining CH into subfloor
- Thread starter buckmoy
- Start date
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It won't do long term harm, but its not really the best practice.....are there no drain cocks around floor level anywhere?
How about cutting the pipe live with a pipe slice and jamming a plastic stop end on as a temporary measure? Just to avoid oxygenated water getting into the system if possible.
John
How about cutting the pipe live with a pipe slice and jamming a plastic stop end on as a temporary measure? Just to avoid oxygenated water getting into the system if possible.
John
Good luck with it - its always a bit nerve wracking the first time! Find a nice easy pipe run, clean the pipe with steel wool or whatever before venturing forth!
(I presume you have the traditional vented, tank in the loft system here.)
John
(I presume you have the traditional vented, tank in the loft system here.)
John
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I like the idea of using push fit stop ends for this sort of work.
I'll soon have to replace a knackered TRV and was considering going live into it's 15mm underfloor pipe and fitting a full bore lever ball valve at the cutting location.
I'll soon have to replace a knackered TRV and was considering going live into it's 15mm underfloor pipe and fitting a full bore lever ball valve at the cutting location.
I've done that with all my rads, Jack......have the valve prepared with the nut and olive in place, valve turned off, cut the pipe and whack it on.
Usually its just a cupful of water that escapes.
John
Usually its just a cupful of water that escapes.
John
A cupfull eh? Probably all over my face but I'll definitely give that a try.
Is it sealed or gravity fed jack? makes a difference if cutting into that pipe. If it's gravity you can bung the tank and vent pipe and lose next to nothing, if sealed then you need to relieve the pressure before cutting.
It's open vent and I'll be working below the ground floor, so turning off the cold feed and bunging the vent sounds like a very good idea to limit my soaking.
(With apologies to the O/P for hijacking their thread. Hope this info is as useful for them)
(With apologies to the O/P for hijacking their thread. Hope this info is as useful for them)
Last edited:
Yup, didn't realise, my apologies to the OP too!!
Oh and shut down all the rads, both ends, to minimise any risk of loss there too. Remember the number of turns to shut off the lockshield and open exactly the same once finished.
Oh and shut down all the rads, both ends, to minimise any risk of loss there too. Remember the number of turns to shut off the lockshield and open exactly the same once finished.
When fitting a valve onto an open pressurised line have the valve fully open. That eliminates side spray and pressure trying to force the valve off whilst you tighten it up. Then close valve. Yes there is still a lot of spillage but the mechanics of fitting are a lot easier.
I wouldn't worry about it. Assuming there are no electrics down there.
And that the subfloor isn't someones flat
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