What options are there when the job is to replace a CU in Berkshire?
An EIC and a Building Control notification. Even if the OP doesn't know what "certify" means, the electrician does.
Sanity Check: Cost of new Consumer Unit install
- Thread starter Cypermethrin
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An EIC and a Building Control notification. Even if the OP doesn't know what "certify" means, the electrician does.
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Actually, EFLImpudence is correct. The certification relates only to the replacement of the distribution board - it does not relate to the existing final circuits connected to it. You obviously need to ensure that they are safe to connect insofar as ADS will operate with the new devices etc. but you still are not certifying the existing installation.
Ah - I see what he meant now - sorry.
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Yes but this is often done, just like the original borrowed neutral was generated years before when some one decided to split the floors. Unfortunately people do leave borrowed neutrals even if the rules prohibit it.
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Granted. However I thought you were suggesting that this was a legitimate means of dealing with it. Apologies for the confusion.
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How does a customer judge how busy a tradesman is
Nothing wrong with cash payments
Nothing wrong with customer supplying materials, most of mine supply materials as they are vat registered
Pet hate of mine.
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To clarify, I usually order materials on their account
To answer some of the posed questions.
1/ why do I think I need a new consumer unit ? See photo - ignore the alarm panel on left hand side its not connected. So you see the issue .....
2/ why did i request the tails to be changed ? i didnt I had to Google it to find out what this meant I dont know if this is necessary work.
3/ the advice was as a first step install new consumer unit and test the circuits. -this was what the quote was for and did not include any other time/materials in resolving any issues which may be thrown up
Thanks again
You have RCDs and you have MCBs.
It's a bit untidy but if I were you I'd keep your money for the time being.
Save the money to put towards a rewire in the future.
Or if you want to be sure, have an EICR done, and then have anything that's flagged up as a C1 or C2 remedied. Don't believe anyone that says you need your CU upgraded to meet ammendment 3 standards, as you don't.
It's a bit untidy but if I were you I'd keep your money for the time being.
Save the money to put towards a rewire in the future.
Or if you want to be sure, have an EICR done, and then have anything that's flagged up as a C1 or C2 remedied. Don't believe anyone that says you need your CU upgraded to meet ammendment 3 standards, as you don't.
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I can see why you want to change from Loadmaster today they are very expensive to replace, however were still good quality. I would want to turn off power likely for more than what a freezer could allow, and I think this is a major factor on cost, if it needs an alternative supply while the job is being done it makes it a lot harder.
There seems to be more than you would normally find in a house, and I wonder how big the supply is? In theory you can use a consumer unit up to 125 amp, but in general 100 amp is the limit for a consumer unit, above that and your looking at a distribution unit not a consumer unit, and that brings the skill of person in charge in question.
I know for use by an ordinary person we should use a consumer unit, but don't know where it says that, so not sure what the official method is when the property needs more than 100 amp?
I did it with one property using a 160A three phase isolator which had three fuses which supplied three consumer units, it was a single phase supply, but since over 100A had to find a way to split supply before the consumer unit and fuse down, the reason why I am saying this is maybe you can't have a single consumer unit?
There were at one time stacked consumer units, but still with a single 100A isolator, after all our efforts at the old mill to allow over 100A the DNO only gave us 100A and said if it was to rupture they would consider upping it so in spite of being a huge property it still worked with just 100A. The figure quoted does seem large for the work, where I live I had two electricians for 6 days and I was charged including parts £2500, can't really see it being a two man job, and £200 a day seems a fair rate, other areas may hit £300 a day, but I would have not expected the work to take 3 days. However using RCBO throughout the price for parts would be high, so it could easy hit that figure with good quality materials, specially if using items normally only used for commercial installations.
There seems to be more than you would normally find in a house, and I wonder how big the supply is? In theory you can use a consumer unit up to 125 amp, but in general 100 amp is the limit for a consumer unit, above that and your looking at a distribution unit not a consumer unit, and that brings the skill of person in charge in question.
I know for use by an ordinary person we should use a consumer unit, but don't know where it says that, so not sure what the official method is when the property needs more than 100 amp?
I did it with one property using a 160A three phase isolator which had three fuses which supplied three consumer units, it was a single phase supply, but since over 100A had to find a way to split supply before the consumer unit and fuse down, the reason why I am saying this is maybe you can't have a single consumer unit?
There were at one time stacked consumer units, but still with a single 100A isolator, after all our efforts at the old mill to allow over 100A the DNO only gave us 100A and said if it was to rupture they would consider upping it so in spite of being a huge property it still worked with just 100A. The figure quoted does seem large for the work, where I live I had two electricians for 6 days and I was charged including parts £2500, can't really see it being a two man job, and £200 a day seems a fair rate, other areas may hit £300 a day, but I would have not expected the work to take 3 days. However using RCBO throughout the price for parts would be high, so it could easy hit that figure with good quality materials, specially if using items normally only used for commercial installations.
Thanks ericmark much appreciated
The consumer unit at top left hand side of picture feeds
I did get a quote for an EICR - and that was £390 which I thought was excessive but was advised that as we have multiple boards it was costed on a board basis ?
The consumer unit at top left hand side of picture feeds
- External workshop with its own consumer unit with MCBs
- external office which has its own consumer unit
- External power to pond pumps and lights
I did get a quote for an EICR - and that was £390 which I thought was excessive but was advised that as we have multiple boards it was costed on a board basis ?
Get more quotes. Likely for a GOOD EICR you're looking at 2 men or a man and a mate for at least a day (assuming all of those circuits exist)
If you discuss with the electrician beforehand, he may allow you to count all the points on each circuit (usually turn it off and see what doesn't work if it's not well labelled)
This can take a long time for something that requires only basic knowledge. You could do that at your leisure and just give him a list when he arrives.
Being on hand to point out where these circuits are can also be very helpful. Many a time I've spent longer than it would have taken to test the circuit just looking for it when the homeowner probably knew where it was had they been around
Less time = less money
The saga continues..... we have had another quote for the work - see below.
What's the deal with the ground spike ??
Similar expense to the original quote
Quotation for fuse board change
Our first job would be to test the earth loop impedence at your house ,due to the type of electrical installation being a over head supply and not having a earth so you have a earth spike and as long as the readings being ok we would not have any additional costs but if the readings are not correct the earth spike could have to be changed or a extension to the spike added and driven deeper at a cost to you.
Change 2 number fuse boards,with twin rcd boards each with a main switch,remove existing boards ,rcds and replace the main cables feeding the board.we will test the fuse board out going circuits, if there are no problems we will issue a test certicate ,we allow some time for correcting any issues but if this time goes over 2 days there will be additional costs to yourselfs from us,we would keep you informed about issues as we go through the job.
Cost £1100.00 plus vat includes 2 new fuse boards installed and up to 2days labour .
Any additional work we would do on a day rate of £200.00 plus vat
What's the deal with the ground spike ??
Similar expense to the original quote
Quotation for fuse board change
Our first job would be to test the earth loop impedence at your house ,due to the type of electrical installation being a over head supply and not having a earth so you have a earth spike and as long as the readings being ok we would not have any additional costs but if the readings are not correct the earth spike could have to be changed or a extension to the spike added and driven deeper at a cost to you.
Change 2 number fuse boards,with twin rcd boards each with a main switch,remove existing boards ,rcds and replace the main cables feeding the board.we will test the fuse board out going circuits, if there are no problems we will issue a test certicate ,we allow some time for correcting any issues but if this time goes over 2 days there will be additional costs to yourselfs from us,we would keep you informed about issues as we go through the job.
Cost £1100.00 plus vat includes 2 new fuse boards installed and up to 2days labour .
Any additional work we would do on a day rate of £200.00 plus vat
As ypu supply is over head cables the supply company ( DNO ) cannot garantee that they can provide an earth to your property. Damage to the overhead cable could disconnect an Earth wire but leave the Live still connected. Very hazardous if the house relies on the Earth from the supply network. Most networks combine the Earth and the Neutral onto the same wire but the effect is the same if that wire snaps.
Hence the Earth for your house is a true Earth or Ground achievel by an electrode ( ground rod ) being driven in the ground. The rod must be able to carry any " leaked " electricity into the ground so that the RCD or RCBO (Earth Leakage Device) in the consumer unit trips before the voltage on the Earth wires in the house rises above 50 volts. The better the connection between the rod and the earth ( the soil ) the sooner the RCD will trip when there is a fault creating a leak of electricity to the Earth wire in the house
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