Filling around light switches and sockets

Nuria · 18 Jan 2018

Hi,

I have had decorators at home to fix and paint all walls and unfortunately they have left small unfinished areas behind.
They have changed all lighting switches and sockets to flat ones but have not filled the very small gap left - see image.

I'm looking to do this myself since I don't think it should be that difficult! Could you recommend a suitable filler material and process I should follow?

Many thanks

terryplumb · 18 Jan 2018

May be a trick of the light ,but your pic would appear to show that the switch is not actually touching the wall ,as though its not going back far enough to touch the wall ,and is sitting forward ??

Nuria · 18 Jan 2018

Yes, that’s exactly what is happening. The space between the wall and the fitting is really minor - I’d say 2 or 3mm. We replaced the old switches with flat ones and I guess the hole in the wall is just enough for the new boxes. I thought that gap could be just carefully filled?
I can also remove it to see what is going on behind but they fitted all the same way so I dont think there is much space left behind.

terryplumb · 18 Jan 2018

These low profile switch's have to go further back into the metal back box's ,that are sunk into the wall ,than conventional switches. So they really need a deeper back box ,or the existing one sunk deeper into the wall ,both will involve some degree of disturbance to the surrounding wall finish. As it is now ,the electric cables will be " trapped " and under pressure ,between the back of the switch and the metal back box. I can only presume that they were not fitted by an electrician ,as any worth their salt would have advised you of the above. Can you turn off the electric supply ,and release the switch from the wall ,pull forward exposing the wiring ,take pics and post here ?? I am interested to know if anything is amiss with the earthing arrangement

Mike10 · 18 Jan 2018

I've used these spacers in the past in a similar situation.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...MI36Ks2KLi2AIVEJ4bCh0aswxAEAQYASABEgK0ffD_BwE

They are 10mm thick though, so may be too much for you.
No need to mess with the cables, they just slip over once it is removed from the wall.

oldbutnotdead · 18 Jan 2018

https://www.amazon.co.uk/rhinocable...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5V07XVEE3F0TFF8P1DT9 may not suit the look of the switches but they'll hide the gap (and aren't as deep as the box extenders). Other styles are probably available.......

opps · 20 Jan 2018

I normally remove the faceplate covers and backfill the areas with something like Red devil One Time or Toupret Redlite. once dried I give it a light sand and paint.

The filer is so soft that it will allow the plate to dig in slightly if the filler is a tad proud.

If you are worried about fingernails gouging the filler, then use one of the Toupret powder fillers, your sanding will however need to be a tad more precise.

sparkwright · 22 Jan 2018

terryplumb said:
These low profile switch's have to go further back into the metal back box's ,that are sunk into the wall ,than conventional switches. So they really need a deeper back box ,or the existing one sunk deeper into the wall ,both will involve some degree of disturbance to the surrounding wall finish. As it is now ,the electric cables will be " trapped " and under pressure ,between the back of the switch and the metal back box. I can only presume that they were not fitted by an electrician ,as any worth their salt would have advised you of the above. Can you turn off the electric supply ,and release the switch from the wall ,pull forward exposing the wiring ,take pics and post here ?? I am interested to know if anything is amiss with the earthing arrangement

I DON'T THINK THERE IS A GAP, as such.

These are 'screwless' faceplates - the back plate is clear or black, and a white faceplate is clipped over it, creating the illusion of a gap.

Best way to fill fill the damage is to remove the faceplate and it's back plate, WITH THE POWER COMPLETELY OFF.

terryplumb · 23 Jan 2018

terryplumb said:
May be a trick of the light ,but your pic would appear to show that the switch is not actually touching the wall ,as though its not going back far enough to touch the wall ,and is sitting forward ??

Nuria said:
Yes, that’s exactly what is happening. The space between the wall and the fitting is really minor - I’d say 2 or 3mm.
*****************
Sounds like its not FLUSH to the wall ,and looks like it too.easy way to find out then is to put a piece of card flat against the wall ,and if it slides down in between the wall and switch ,the switch isnt flush !! Regards Terry

misterhelpful · 23 Jan 2018

I'm under the impression that the OP doesn't want to pull the plates off and is just looking to fill the 'gaps' as the are.
If so, the only real way is to use decorator's caulk. All of us here know that it's not the correct method, and is setting yourself up for issues if the plates need to be removed for any reason, but it's a pretty simple quick fix which, if applied carefully shouldn't even be noticeable.

foxhole · 2 Jan 2019

Nuria said:
Hi,

I have had decorators at home to fix and paint all walls and unfortunately they have left small unfinished areas behind.
They have changed all lighting switches and sockets to flat ones but have not filled the very small gap left - see image.

View attachment 134807

I'm looking to do this myself since I don't think it should be that difficult! Could you recommend a suitable filler material and process I should follow?

Many thanks

You stated “ they” replaced the switch plates suggesting the decorators did it, wrong people for that job judging by the result .

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Filling around light switches and sockets

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