change of switch socket / plug socket

Rubber was phased out long before 1966. My late parents house was built in 1952 and had PVC cables from the outset. I believe it was one of the first. Other houses on the estate built a year or two earlier had rubber so I was told.
Our house built in 1951 wired in split tube & cotton covered rubber singles [with green cotton & red rubber as SL, a throwback to days of red, green & blue for 3ph]. I was born in 1955 but I remember going to the wholesaler [Fugh's in Chatham] with Dad and buying and installing the same singles and also T&E with rubber inner/plastic outer.

After I started work in 1972 as an apprentice I remember installing rubber inner/lead outer for intrinsically safe equipment.
 
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Replacing the switch face plates is not adding to the circuit. If I were called to this job, I would confirm the earth is satisfactory. If it is not, I'd leave the plastic fronts in place and stick a label on the CU advising against fitting metal switches. If the OP cannot confirm the earth, my advice is to leave it. As for the CU, the time to replace is when an EICR shows a fail. As there is no RCD it is not suitable for upgrades to the installation, without a CU change.
 
There is no pass or fail with an EICR just advisory codes.

Upgrades such RCD sockets can be done.
 
There is no pass or fail with an EICR just advisory codes.

Upgrades such RCD sockets can be done.

If a test result is a fail, the report shows a code. As you know, there is no obligation for the customer to act on the report so the report is all advisory.


I did refer to satisfactory earth determining whether to change a switch front.
Try googling RCD switches
 
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I have just googled "RCD switches" I can't actually see any simply RCD switch, RCD FCU and RCD to fit inside an enclosure, but not a simply RCD switch. As to advisory it depends if owner occupier or not, although the EICR may advice depending on England, Scotland, or Wales as each slightly different then for tenant occupied it is to all intense and purposes law. Even owner occupier with children it would be hard to get away without repair.

So
C1 – There is a danger present, risk of injury and immediate remedial action required.
There is no real excuse for continued use, and if the inspector has switched the supply off with permission to test, he could not reinstate the supply.
C2 – There is a potential danger present and urgent remedial work is required.
C3 – Improvement is recommended.
Both C2 and C3 are a little vague, and you will find electricians arguing on some faults which should be used, I would say using English and common sense if it has been permitted since the war, then it can't be C2 it would have to be C3, however that does not seem to be view of electrical safety council. There is one exception where I would say does need a C2 and that is a TT supply with an ELCB-v the main reason why I would say can't allow an ELCB-v is you can't get a tester to test their operation so you don't know if it would work.

There are some faults which seem daft, this guide page 6 shows a potentially overloaded socket, to code that is silly, you simply unplug the items, I know the on site guide gives minimum number of sockets for each room, however not having enough sockets has never been a fail.

I liked the complies with previous edition code 4, it showed dated but did not say it needed doing, but I was rather surprised when I bought this house that I was not advised to get an EICR done by the solicitor, just a RICS which although done did not arrive until near enough ready to exchange contracts. The survey actually listed some electrical items, and I can see how a non electrical person would think the electrics had been checked, we were also given vie the solicitor an installation certificate and compliance certificate which also gave the impression there had been a complete rewire, but in real terms it only covered work in the garage.

As to if the sellers had set out to con us, or if they simply did not know faults I don't know, but we had fell in love with the house so to stop sale it would have needed to be rather major faults.

But all well and good for me to say don't need an EICR, no mortgage, and I can repair at low cost, but for non electrician without the report you simply don't know what you have.
 
Hi Eric. My post was for Winston who had not read my post. I was talking about metal switches and he jumped in with RCD sockets. Totally missing my point.

He decided that an EICR doesn’t have pass/fail. I see satisfactory/unsatisfactory as the same thing. As for obligation, the person commissioning the report is not under obligation to get any faults corrected. Obviously, leaving a reported fault in place which causes injury or damage could have legal implications.

As for codes, the main issue I see is that people carry out inspections who are not sufficiently experienced. It’s fine when inspecting a ‘standard’ installation but anything unusual can catch out the unwary. The guides can help, but should not replace experience. I would also say the confusion between C2and C3 is overstated and again becomes an issue when inexperienced people are inspecting.

the final point I would make is the old code 4 never really made sense. As the non-compliance is not dangerous and needs no remedial action, why bother listing it.

FYI, I am typing on an iPad so there may be many typos caused by switching between keyboard modes together with ‘destructive text’
 
So I have got to check the interrupter and plugs and believe there is earth as per picture attached.

so as there is Earth - is that all right to change the plate without changing the consumer unit?

I guess the risk here is me to use metal socket / light switch is the risk of electrocution that would be reduce by having a RCB compliant consumer unit?

Thanks
 

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There appears to be an earth connection at the light switch, so that is a plus.

But brass?? I had to check the start date of this topic to make sure it wasn’t from 1975, but that’s your choice I guess.

One practical issue. the overall size of some ( not all) metal switches and sockets is larger than the basic plastic ones. This means that in some places the metal socket may not fit. I spotted this especially having looked at your first picture which shows some plastic trunking hard on to the side of a double socket.
 

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