did you look at the level before draining ? 5 minutes would drop the tank by more than a third
CH Pump Problem
- Thread starter yartin
- Start date
That's what I was getting at, the starting point isn't quite clear
The tank was full, by the dry line. The flow rate of drained water as per photo above.
The tank was full, by the dry line. The flow rate of drained water as per photo above.
You can say that again!
You should give the F&E Cistern a thorough clean out before refilling the system. Also consider isolating the pump, remove the 4 stud bolts and pump head and clean out the impeller vanes with. a steel scriber or small screwdriver and a tie wrap, those Selectrics are outstanding pumps.
What you've done is unlikely to have made any difference to your original problem. Have you tried cleaning the pump impeller, as Johntheo5 and I suggested?
I haven't done anything since; few questions:
1. With hot water or central heating selected, would the pump turn if boiler not firing? IE: does the pump turn only when boiler is firing?
2. Can I test the operation of the pump without taking it apart? ie: by taking the middle silver screw and see if pump turning?
3. I have ticking noise nothing loud when boiler fires, there is no banging or nocking, is been there for a while even possibly years, the flame is blue and normal; does this suggest anything wrong with the boiler/heat exchanger? boiler is ideal classis cast iron exchanger
4. The issue is still the same, the boiler fires when HW or heat is selected only for 30 sec or so and stops, there are 2 water pipes on top of the boiler; assume feed and return, one gets very hot but other stays cold. The boiler fires back on after 30mins or so, in between the pump gets very hot. Why does the pump get very hot?
Thanks
1. With hot water or central heating selected, would the pump turn if boiler not firing? IE: does the pump turn only when boiler is firing?
2. Can I test the operation of the pump without taking it apart? ie: by taking the middle silver screw and see if pump turning?
3. I have ticking noise nothing loud when boiler fires, there is no banging or nocking, is been there for a while even possibly years, the flame is blue and normal; does this suggest anything wrong with the boiler/heat exchanger? boiler is ideal classis cast iron exchanger
4. The issue is still the same, the boiler fires when HW or heat is selected only for 30 sec or so and stops, there are 2 water pipes on top of the boiler; assume feed and return, one gets very hot but other stays cold. The boiler fires back on after 30mins or so, in between the pump gets very hot. Why does the pump get very hot?
Thanks
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Could be dodgy pump.
The pump should run anytime there is a call for heat from the boiler, the pump may or may not continue running if the boiler cuts/trips out,..
You can see if the pump impeller is rotating by taking out that centre screw, just hold a cloth underneath it when you remove the screw, you might be able to see the end of the pump shaft, may require a torch of stick something like a reversed pencil into the pump to feel the shaft rotating (or not).
30 secs does seem a very short run time even if the pump is kaput, you have two choices, remove the pump as I suggested (if the shat is rotating, above) and inspect the impeller, if not rotating, go and get a new pump, you can get a cheapie for around £60/£80 or so on Amazon or (my preference), a 6M Dab Evosta3, or like my own, a 6M Wilo Yonos Pico, both ~ £120 or so, use rubber gaskets if you do install one, mine were supplied with the Wilo.
It shouldn't be too difficult to remove the pump body to check the impeller etc, just 4 Allen bolts. No need to disturb the pipework. Close the pump valves first, or if you prefer, partially drain the system.
It would be a shame to replace the pump and find it's no better.
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