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As I explained in post #6.
Thermostat not switching off boiler
- Thread starter BelfastGuy82
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Assuming two new stats, if you turn one off on its on/off switch as shown, and the other (the one you say isn't working normally) doesn't switch off the boiler off "normally" and you then switch that off also, see does it shut down the boiler. If it does, leave it switched off, turn on the other stat and turn it up to make the boiler fire up, then turn it back down, see does that one switch off the boilder without having to reduce it to 14C, if not switch it off as well, see if boiler stops firing.
You may not have the on/off switch, thats on the CM3S, also check that the switched Live out is connected to terminal 2.
You may not have the on/off switch, thats on the CM3S, also check that the switched Live out is connected to terminal 2.
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My apologies, just re-read and it's the stat misbehaving. I'm which case, get them back, could have been wired wrong
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Very good point, that is how mine are configured.
Yes seems likely.
@Harry Bloomfield has raised a good point, so @CountryFan may be in error here. My house is too large for a single thermostat to work, following guidelines, we should not fit a thermostat in a room with alternative heating, or doors to the outside, as with alternative heating it can result with other rooms too cool, and with doors to the outside it could result in other rooms getting too hot, using TRV heads stops overheating, and using multi-thermostats in parallel stops getting too cool, by time one has messed around setting up multi-thermostatic control, often easier to just fit a smart control system.
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Appears to be wired correctly...?
Maybe the 'heat anticipator' is the problem, but I can't currently see how to adjust it, if it even is adjustable. It might be hiding behind the dial.
Maybe the 'heat anticipator' is the problem, but I can't currently see how to adjust it, if it even is adjustable. It might be hiding behind the dial.
If you can use a M.meter, check for 230V between the brown and the blue on the far right, ter 2, while turning the dial up and down.
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I wouldn't have expected to get 230v on that one because it's just the 'call for heat' one; it seems to constantly fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts.
I get 238v to the blue one on the left, which makes more sense to me because it comes from the same grey cable that the brown comes out of.
Are you saying that's wrong...?
Correct, I got mixed up with the switched live colour of blue.... so 230V constant between the brown and the blue (N) on the left, irrespective of the stat setting, and 230V between the switched live, blue on the right and blue (N) on the left with the stat calling for heat and 0V when not calling for heat, dial turned down. You could also test between Live and ter 1 while switching the stat up and down.
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Everything seems to read as expected.
I figured out how to remove the two little plastic inserts that control the lockable range, allowing me to set the dial lower than I was able to before, and I've found a point at around 12 degrees on the dial where the thermostat will actually knock off when my digital thermometer above it reads 19 degrees.
So if 19 degrees in the room shows as 12 degrees on the dial, I don't know if or how that can be fixed. Do these stupid mechanical things need calibrated or something...?
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Not by the user, did you get the HA out?
Temperatures can vary quite a lot in a room - just set the stat, so it provides the warmth you need, and when you need it.
I had one of those EPH stats, they certainly switch around the temperature setting on the dial
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Not yet, it's been a long week.
They will get called next week probably, even just to have a conclusion to this thread, since ultimately I'll probably start looking for a digital one to fit myself.
For an extra five or ten quid they could have given me a proper one and saved themselves the cost of the upcoming call out.
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