The TRV fell off

One thing I forgot to ask on this -

Off the top of my head, the TRV was at setting #3. 3 or 4 but if I had to call it then I'd say #3.

So when I put the new head on, does it have to be set to #3 when doing so or does that not really matter?


As for pushing pins in - nope, not tried that. Don't know what that'll do so I'm not about to experiment on something until I know what'll happen.

As for making threads on the sub floor - don't need to. Had damp guys out to deal with the work. Walls dealt with, flooring, joists dealt with. Sump pump installed. 11 years on things are ok. Would I like a solid floor? Sure, but the quote was £12k 11yrs ago so no thanks.



Also whats with poster number this that & the other? Can't we just give names or even quote folk? No offence but who's scrolling back to find out who lucky number whatever is each time poster number is mentioned?
 
Mr. Clueless said:
Also whats with poster number this that & the other? Can't we just give names or even quote folk? No offence but who's scrolling back to find out who lucky number whatever is each time poster number is mentioned?
Click to expand...
Just a self confessed troll.

Number doesn't matter but it'll be easier to fit if fully open, on 5.
 
I don't mean this in a pedantic sense, I mean it in an I don't hav ea clue what I'm talking about sense - but number 5 or max?

Reason I ask is I have some rads with Danfoss TRVs where 5 is the highest setting.

But with the Drayton, there's MAX after 5 which I take to be basically 6.

So does it matter whether I pick 5 or MAX?
 
Mr. Clueless said:
So does it matter whether I pick 5 or MAX
Click to expand...
Not very much. I might be slightly easier to tighten it into position with it set on Max.

You have a few choices offered by people in this thread:
1. Cheapest & quickest - Get a new head and screw it on.
2. Better, a little more expensive, but should provide a longer term fix - Replace the valve body and the head together.
3. Most expensive, might cause more problems than it solves - Replace the valve head and body, get someone to do a power flush. Perhaps have the radiators, boiler and pipework replaced and what about a new bathroom suite and an outside tap?

I would choose option 2.
 
Mr. Clueless said:
I don't mean this in a pedantic sense, I mean it in an I don't hav ea clue what I'm talking about sense - but number 5 or max?

Reason I ask is I have some rads with Danfoss TRVs where 5 is the highest setting.

But with the Drayton, there's MAX after 5 which I take to be basically 6.

So does it matter whether I pick 5 or MAX?
Click to expand...

The only reason that you set them to high/max/5 before removal and replacement is that it moves the internal plunger further away from the pin in the body which is/should be spring loaded... Thus you're not pushing against resistance as you try to refit the head.

Do tap the pin gently before fitting the new one and make sure it springs back up after being pushed down... About 3-4mm movement else you'll replace the head and pin could still be jammed down, meaning rad is, in effect, shut off.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I've actually gone for option 1. I appreciate it's not the ideal one. I went for one of the Drayton compatible TRVs for about £10.

I get my boiler serviced in December which is when I take 2 week annual leave. The idea will be when booking the plumber to also ask him to then do what you're saying for option 2.

And probably have him look at that one in the kitchen with all the greenery.

Speaking of which - what's your take on the green copper piping in & around the stop cock with what I said about the damp etc?

Problem or somewhat normal? Or is it just simply too hard to tell from a photo?

FWIW - the flooring area there is never wet.
 
Mr. Clueless said:
I've actually gone for option 1. I appreciate it's not the ideal one. I went for one of the Drayton compatible TRVs for about £10.

I get my boiler serviced in December which is when I take 2 week annual leave. The idea will be when booking the plumber to also ask him to then do what you're saying for option 2.
Click to expand...
Good plan.
Mr. Clueless said:
Speaking of which - what's your take on the green copper piping in & around the stop cock with what I said about the damp etc?
Click to expand...
I suspect it's just cosmetic, perhaps ask your plumber to take a look when he is there anyway.
 
I don't frequent the board enough or know enough about plumbing to be able to say who's trolling & who isn't. If indeed anyone is.

But to play the game for a second - if he is trolling (or anyone) then it's ok for you guys who know what you're talking about but it's an absolute fricken nightmare for someone like me who doesn't have a clue because I don't know if the troll is correct or the next guy or the guy after him etc & it makes for decision paralysis.

What I tend to do is just let the comments come in & see if there's a clear majority & go with that.
 

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