The only reason that you set them to high/max/5 before removal and replacement is that it moves the internal plunger further away from the pin in the body which is/should be spring loaded... Thus you're not pushing against resistance as you try to refit the head.
Do tap the pin gently before fitting the new one and make sure it springs back up after being pushed down... About 3-4mm movement else you'll replace the head and pin could still be jammed down, meaning rad is, in effect, shut off.
I've actually gone for option 1. I appreciate it's not the ideal one. I went for one of the Drayton compatible TRVs for about £10.
I get my boiler serviced in December which is when I take 2 week annual leave. The idea will be when booking the plumber to also ask him to then do what you're saying for option 2.
And probably have him look at that one in the kitchen with all the greenery.
Speaking of which - what's your take on the green copper piping in & around the stop cock with what I said about the damp etc?
Problem or somewhat normal? Or is it just simply too hard to tell from a photo?
I've actually gone for option 1. I appreciate it's not the ideal one. I went for one of the Drayton compatible TRVs for about £10.
I get my boiler serviced in December which is when I take 2 week annual leave. The idea will be when booking the plumber to also ask him to then do what you're saying for option 2.
I don't frequent the board enough or know enough about plumbing to be able to say who's trolling & who isn't. If indeed anyone is.
But to play the game for a second - if he is trolling (or anyone) then it's ok for you guys who know what you're talking about but it's an absolute fricken nightmare for someone like me who doesn't have a clue because I don't know if the troll is correct or the next guy or the guy after him etc & it makes for decision paralysis.
What I tend to do is just let the comments come in & see if there's a clear majority & go with that.
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