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With the power off and stat disconnected as in your photo, get a multimeter and test resistances L-N, L-E, E-N. Also; the photo seems to show water staining on the casing from above and above right of the 'mersion

Turn the boiler stat (a control for the user located at the bottom of of the boiler behind a flap) down a bit. No tools required. Post picture of boiler or boiler details if unsure how to access or identify.

You'll need to pump or syphon the cistern ("tank") empty before cutting into the pipework to replace the gate valve in order to have a manageable amount of water in the the pipework to contend with. Towels and bucket to the ready!

It's a feature. No-one else will mind.

I'm not. I'm viewing others peoples' posts.

Often pictures get posted on DIYnot in the wrong orientation, usually 90 degrees out. This annoys the f@@k out of me. I am unwilling to turn my monitor with its attached cables through 90° to accommodate. (I guess tablet or phone users may find this easier) 1) why does this happen? 2) any...

AFAIK all makes same on this.

That would be a good solution.

Having turned the power off..

Doh!

The Mira event XS is a power shower, not an electric shower. O.P. search "power showers" on e.g. the screwfix website. The most cost-effective solution is probably a "like for like" replacement.

The Honeywell Wiring Guide is widely available online for download: includes C-Plan (p10 or thereabouts)

yes

Tee in lead perfectly possible, as above. More likely, however, is that they split the supply somewhere near the first point of use i.e. the original kitchen or outhouse area.

Solid fuel fire for auxillary heating of hot water tank. May or may not still be connected/full of water. Suggest you get a HETAS bod ( with H004 Wet Appliance qualification) to have a look at it before you think of ever lighting a fire there!

https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Plumbing%3Afaq7

Looks to me like a Tectite (non-demountable) fitting

Absolutely this.

Yep, looks like I got that wrong. I've edited/withdrawn my post.