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Yes, there's a gap between the centre portion of flashing and the wall and it doesn't look wide enough to sufficiently overlap the adjacent flashing. Just need to access it via cresting removal. Do you know how the finial is usually fixed to the ridge beam?

Hi all I've moved into a house that's got a conservatory in need of some TLC. Tempted to just pull it down but for now it serves a purpose. I just want to stop the water coming in. Initially I've had a think about how to get access as I want to have a good look at the flashing and figure out...

Thank you for your help. So you say "retrofit new mechanism". I assume this means buying newer assembly such as more modern type with rollers or mushrooms and their corresponding keeps and fitting the whole caboosh to the frame?

Hi All I had a uPVC window that was stuck closed. Gearbox had had its day. Managed to get it open by removing glass and drilling through frame then lift the shoot bolt up with screwdriver. Removed mechanism. It says speedbolt on it, seems to be Nico brand. Must be obsolete, can't find...

Unfortunately not. It was disposed of. Good luck with yours.

Any thoughts on the need for a membrane anyone?

Are you referring to the rubble infill that I intend to do as "deep infill"? Or are you referring to the 300 mm rubble that's already in place? (This has been in for 10 yrs) Edit: I see what you mean, may need to be topped up.

Hi all.... I have a couple of terraced areas in the garden. Each approx. 4 m x 4 m. Both are dug out ready for paving, to a depth of approx. 150 mm. Need to get a useable space quickly so the plan is to fill with decorative stone chippings. One terrace is soil and clay, the other is at least...

Thanks both. So it sounds like it's likely to be a case of some bracket adjustment but good chance I can make existing plumbing work by using the same tails. I can live with that. Begs the question why there isn't a standard for this? Seems crazy to me. Why have a system of radiator "types"...

Just wondering :unsure:...... I have removed a tatty radiator with the intention of painting it and refitting. Label on the rad says Korado type 22. It measures 600x600x100. Upon removal, I have noticed that its underside is rusty, so would rather replace it. Stupid question: Is a type 22...

Hi all. Looking for the above. I bought a cheap basic one from Lidl that turned out to be pants (it wasn't very level) but hey it was only twenty quid. Price target probably in the £100 to £200 bracket. Any suggestions please?

So it was done to seal the gaps between the boards rather than change the appearance?

On laminate? :unsure:

Thank you, I'll go and check that out. (y)

Plain solid block colour.

Evening all..... Seriously considering doing this but want to try and get pros and cons from people with experience of this before committing.... There's a couple of old threads on here that came up but not much detail in them and I'd imagine that there's more choice of products to accomplish...

Thanks @Wayners for the advice received. I sanded the problem walls flat to get rid of the ripples (made a big mess but hey it's done now). Followed by a couple of coats of the Good Home paint linked above. It's the first time I've painted walls white. Didn't occur to me that the contract...

Morning..... Old terraced property. The solid walls have had black mortar removed then rendered with cement render then plaster skim coat (not lime). The problem free walls are dot and dab plasterboard with skim.

I've just been looking at these walls and wondering..... There is a mixture of plastered brick walls and plastered dry lined walls. There are no issues at all with the dry lined walls and every solid brick wall has the poor finish. Can't be a coincidence surely?

Much appreciated