Best value cross line laser level?

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Hi all.

Looking for the above. I bought a cheap basic one from Lidl that turned out to be pants (it wasn't very level) but hey it was only twenty quid.

Price target probably in the £100 to £200 bracket. Any suggestions please?
 
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There was quite an in-depth thread on this in the tools section maybe about 3 months ago or possibly further.
 
Well maybe it wasn't that in-depth but there are other threads if you search:

 
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I've got the red dewalt dw088 - great, but not visible outside if it's sunny. Detectors still work. No idea if the green one is better in that regard but the internet says it is. I tend to get around this by waiting for dusk, putting my red laser on and running round with a sharpie or straightedge and line marking paint.

Indoors I find a £15-from-aldi-years-ago drywall support rod very handy; wedge it e.g. upright in the corner of a room and stick the laser level to it with the built in magnets, then you get fine up/down adjust
 
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Doesn't matter what colour they are - no laser levels are usable outside in the sun.
I find a rotary laser, set on no rotation can be used in the sun, just rotate the dot to mark walls etc.

otherwise a detector is necessary.


or for DIYers do it in the evening!
 
Good tip with the rotary laser. You might even find a model that will do an oscillation so you get a bit of a wider beam
 
Doesn't matter what colour they are - no laser levels are usable outside in the sun.
Competing with sunlight on a surface being directly hit by the sun, no.. but they're often usable on a shaded surface, md I've arranged artificial shade successfully before now. The surface they're shining on also makes a difference..

But it's a lot of faff carrying round a board to shadow your tape measure when assessing the up down variation on a floor for example.. best off just ponying up for a detector
 
One thing I didn't mention about the DeWalt that I found occasionally useful is that in vertical mode it will cast the beam slightly behind itself too, so you can put it on the floor against a wall and cast a vertical beam up the wall behind the laser, along the ceiling and ceiling and down the opposite wall.

Also, (from the other thread) though you can't lock the self levelling on it so it doesn't try to self level, if you tip the laser really out of whack it doesn't try to tell you it can't self level, and just projects the beam constantly. If it's slightly too far out of whack to be able to self level the beam flashes on and off. If you want a cross on the ceiling for example you just turn cross on and tip it over
 
I bought and returned a green makita laser level. The line was too thick (several millimetres) for the job. It was very time consuming to finely adjust the height, especially on a suspended floor which bounced the tripod and therefore the line with the tiniest vibration or movement. I reverted to a spirit level, much quicker.

I acknowledge their usefulness on site, but how did people manage all those millennia with a plumb bob and water level and string line?

Blup
 
All valid shortcomings that need working around - the line is maybe a millimetre thick close to the level but spreads out fatter as you get further away; I tend to work to eg the top of it if it's got too fat. On those cases where it bounces it's handy to have it magnetised to a plasterboard prop wedged near the edge of the room so floor vibration is minimal but sometimes you really do need it mounted somewhere less than ideal for vibrations so you try and stand still and let it settle!

My building has a brick and stone wall 500mm thick and about 30m long, and (according to the laser) it's just 13mm higher at one end than the other. Always wondered how they did that back at the start of the 1900s.. One of the guys that came on site to do some concreting revealed the trick - two glass tubes connected with a flexible rubber hose and filled with water creates something like a massive spirit level where the water finds the same level at each end - a technique I've used since just with a bit of clear hosepipe..
 
I've got the red dewalt dw088 - great, but not visible outside if it's sunny. Detectors still work. No idea if the green one is better in that regard but the internet says it is.
AFAIK there are no construction lasers which work outdoors in full rotary line mode on a bright, sunny day, not even the megabucks models such as the Leica Rugby or the big Topcon models - for outdoor work you generally need a detector, although the ability of top end rotary models to be stopped and show a visible dot or do a narrow segment of an arc oscillation is great, it comes with a price bracket well above the £200 max mark mentioned earlier

Green is more visible than red (it's to do with the greater sensitivity of the human eye to green) meaning that a green laser will be easier to see indoors in semi-bright conditions.

If you want a cross on the ceiling for example you just turn cross on and tip it over
I'm sorry, but I can't see that achieving much of practical value. Normally if you are projecting a line at a ceiling it is to do something like mark out centres for lighting cut outs which need to be plumb and in line with something on the floor, or you might be drilling holes for something like a soil stack, dentist 's chair, etc which need to be in line. Sticking a laser on its' back doesn't do this

I acknowledge their usefulness on site, but how did people manage all those millennia with a plumb bob and water level and string line?
The answer is... Slowly! Take a look at the tools the Egyptuans created for surveying - it will be an eye opener

...the line is maybe a millimetre thick close to the level but spreads out fatter as you get further away; I tend to work to eg the top of it if it's got too fat.
Then you are guilty of a "schoolboy error". You always mark the middle of the line (the answer is in the optics part of school science)

One of the guys that came on site to do some concreting revealed the trick - two glass tubes connected with a flexible rubber hose and filled with water creates something like a massive spirit level where the water finds the same level at each end - a technique I've used since just with a bit of clear hosepipe..
Yes - it's called a water level, and @blup mentioned it earlier. Still useful for measuring round corners (i.e out of line of sight) and for doing things like sorting out levels on wall plates/ring beams of big buildings where the roof is being redone piecemeal, but in general a lot slower and less convenient than a laser. At one time site carpenters used to haveca pair of "Nivochoc" ends for a water line (Stanley made them until the 1990s or so - Stabila still offer them). BTW, there is evidence to suggest that a form of water level was used to build the pyramids, but then the Egyptians weren't bad at surveying
 
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Red or green laser are fine outside if they pulse you just need a receiver as for the thickness of line work to the centre
 

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