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My structural engineer gave me two documents. One document had everything a builder needs to know (lintel specs, padstone specs, foundation details, etc.) and the other had the calculations. I'm pretty sure there should be some calculations.

It could be that they used to be common around here. They probably used them on all the houses on the streets around here when they were built. The brickwork is pretty awful too :censored:

Thanks, I couldn't work out what it was. I found an inlet and ordered it, but I paid a lot more than the one Hugh posted a link for :(. At least I should be able to get my pipe in there now.

I need to get a 110mm pipe into my existing inspection chamber. It was built in the 80's and there were apparently common around that time. I've removed a blank and chiselled concrete away but I'm just left with a hole in the plastic. The existing pipe has a nice adapter, but I have no idea...

I've been running ducting for a water pipe and electrical cable. I've noticed that water supply pipes should be 350mm away from other services. I'm wondering whether anybody knows why? My ducting are being run side by side going into the foundation. If they weren't side by side then I would...

I'm building an extension and matching the bricks to the existing house. I noticed that ibstock say that the bricks should not be used "below ground level DPC". Their durability is F1 (moderately frost resistant). The existing house was built in the 80's and has the facing bricks going below...

The pipe isn't there yet so I don't need to dig under it. It's also possible to fill the chamber with pea shingle if the pipe needs support. I was also thinking of putting a water pipe and electrical cable through the chamber, but that would be a pain if it was covered in pea shingle.

I am adding a 110mm non-return valve for my soakaway and want to build an inspection chamber for it as it's supposed to be inspected periodically. I looked at plastic options but couldn't see what I needed. Pipes usually stop at inspection chambers but I want this one to pass through, with the...

I have some blocks for a garage and noticed that the blocks are approx 435x215x95. The spec is 440x215x100, so the height is spot on but other dimensions are a bit short. Should I do 15mm perps or is that bad practice? To complicate things a bit further I also have some aerated blocks...

Do you know how I would terminate it at the other end? It'll come out of the ground. Twinwall ducting would then be a bit big/unsightly to run up the outside wall. I also don't want to be digging up the floor in my existing garage.

I'm doing an extension and need to get an armoured cable through the foundation and want to know the best way to do it. The main question is around how I should build the foundation. Would I need a lintel for the cable or can I just drill a whole in the trench blocks? I am also considering...

Water butts do sound a bit silly. I have just installed a huge underground rainwater tank, but the problem is that they only help if they aren't full.

It would take a lot of water to do that as the hole is almost 4m2. I also think this would settle either way. The lower part is made of sand which should drain easily. The water in the hole returned to almost (but not quite) its original height over night. Not sure whether that just means the...

:D My hole looks a lot better than that. Was that filled when it rained or did the water flow into it when it was being dug?

I've had a few dry days here but the hole still had a lot of water in it. It took about an hour to pump out the water but then it gradually filled up again. Does anybody know whether the water is coming from the surrounding soil or whether it's the water table? The level ended up to approx...

I can't really do a perc test after digging the hole as the perc test is done with a smaller hole and at a higher level. I'd also need to wait for some dry weather to get accurate results. If the water table meets the bottom of the soakaway then I believe the water wouldn't soakaway, it would...

I've dug a hole for a soakaway (1400mm deep). When I got to the bottom I found that it started puddling. The low spots had puddles but the high spots didn't. I'm wondering whether this is the water table or whether it's just because we've had loads of rain recently (everything is soggy on the...

That's a good point. I had thought about using insulated plasterboard in the future, which would be more than enough to compensate for the less efficient blocks. It does feel like insulating from the inside isn't the best way to do things but I guess it's fine. I'm sure that insulation must...

As I mentioned in my first message, I want the option to convert to a room in the future, so the U value would then make a significant difference. The garage door and roof will be insulated, so it will be well insulated on the whole. It should make a big difference in the summer when the garage...

I'm building a garage and a living room attached to my main property. The walls will be cavity walls with brick and block. My plans are all done for lightweight blocks ie. 3.6N and I was going to use the 0.15W/mK ones which should give a better U value. I'd like to leave the option of converting...