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Originally I had assumed regular plaster could be placed onto laths by a regular plasterer, and if this was the case, it would mean there wouldn't be the extra time/expense of removing laths and placing new plasterboard in place. I now realise this wouldn't be the case.

This is the sort of thing I'm thinking of.

So if regular plaster cannot go directly onto laths, and needs to be a lime plaster - so this needs to be a specialist plasterer only? Regular plasterers can't use lime plaster directly onto laths? (In case relevant, the house is not listed).

Okay - so regular plaster may not be suitable to plaster over laths; I hadn't thought of that possibility. If any plasterers can confirm? Thanks.

Yes - these would be original timber laths already in-situ.

If having an electrician place a surface-mounted wooden pattress box on a wall with a light switch on this in order to achieve a 1930s look, I expect there is some element of increased risk with having a timber product next to an electrical product in this manner. To reduce any such risk...

Thanks - it would just be standard builders-merchant's plaster in either scenario.

Is it any more expensive/time consuming/difficult for a professional plasterer to plaster over timber laths which are already in-situ compared to plastering over pre-installed plasterboard of the same square area? Thanks.

Quite often TRVs will have vertical openings along the upper section which allow the internal sensor to determine the air temperature. This TRV does not appear to have these. Do you think that might be an issue? Has anyone here used this specific TRV...

Is this "economy button" (the green button) a feature which also appears on other TRVs other than this Honeywell Valencia VTL120? I don't think I've seen it before. Is the purpose of this to easily turn off a specific radiator, without having to adjust the radiator setting on that TRV i.e. it...

One reason I ask is that I've tried a vertical column rad in the past and irrespective of what the official wattage was, it definitely took the room longer to heat up compared to a standalone electrical heater of equivalent wattage.

In reality, do you think a standalone electrical 2000W electrical heater (example below) would heat up a room in the same time it would take a central heating Type 22 horizontal radiator of exactly 2000W (at delta 50, with CH at 50) to heat up the same room? Or would the CH rad heat the room up...

Thanks Bernard.

I think when radiators are sized for a central heating system, the size of rads required for each room would differ depending upon whether the system had a condensing or non-condensing boiler. I'm not sure if the radiators should have greater output capability if its a condensing or...

Thanks muggles. When I click on the "Play" button to activate the rotational image of each radiator and spin the image around, they both look identical to me.

Would anyone happen to know what the difference is between these two radiators? I can see that the name is different, and also the price. Presumably something else differentiates them which I have not as yet identified. Thanks! Vita Deco Vertical...

Noted. Is the mild steel a better material for radiator production than aluminium?

Out of curiosity, is there any substantive benefit in vertical column over vertical tube, or vice versa?

https://www.stelrad.com/radiators/vertical-radiators/softline-compact-vertical-1800mm-x-400mm/ Any experience of the above aluminium vertical? Would you have any specifics with regards to installing a vertical Acova in a room as regards to the size of Acova, quantity required in the room and...

Potentially either, if it had good heat output. I have one 1800 x 470 mm 3-column radiator in a 9 sqm room, and it takes 4-5 hours to get the temperature up to 20/21 C. I had thought this was over-sized when I bought it, but even if it was double the size again it would potentially still take...