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But then, we're talking about socket modules that will each have been individually tested to an appropriate current...

If the engine temperature is high and the cooling fan is running for a significant time, or if the car is halted on a steep incline are some other factors.

We recently bought a second hand car with gouges in the alloy to a similar depth as yours. The garage got the wheel refurbed at a specialist for @£100 - the wheel came out as new.

Are you sure it has a 12V supply? The image you've posted, appears to show a Heatmiser neoStat WiFi Carbon; a model that also comes in a 230V version... Have you investigated the wiring behind the neoStat?

Expensive, but pretty cool! :) https://www.amazon.co.uk/NeoRuler-NeoCaliper-Measuring-Customized-Measurment/dp/B0CJHSX9GQ

Win + R "MSConfig"

It doesn't sound as if you've tried safe mode yet? That and disabling startup services would be my next step. That's what it seems like to me.

I think I would attempt to narrow down the problem to either the keyboard, or mouse. Keep one disconnected, use Windows as usual and see what happens, before swapping over to the other. Through the ease of access settings, Windows key + U, there is the option for moving the mouse cursor with...

Not quite. If there were a dead end, there couldn't be any current flowing. As @terryplumb suggests... Here is a schematic of a 3 port valve (albeit a Honeywell), in its rest position... https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Three_port_mid_position_valve If 230V was applied to the Orange...

I'm afraid this may need some further testing. To me, the charring around the relay outputs of the thermostat, suggests it switched a dead short - blowing up may not be the fault of the stat or the wiring; but something further down the line, like the zone valve. Do you know what sort of C/H...

As per the Hardiebacker instructions... Use alkaline resistant scrim and fill the gaps with tile adhesive.

My own opinion - I would probably not recommend downloading any windows 'repair' tool, such as Outbyte. Especially so, if the process to be 'fixed' is one that shouldn't be running in the first place.

Is your computer an ex-corporate machine, or connected to a company network? The PCICL32.DLL and wmiprvse are linked to remote management software. If your machine is a home machine and always has been, it may be worth scanning for malware.

The dual channel Hive should be connectable to the mains voltage terminals of the ESP1 combi - terminal 4 of the Hive receiver would join to the left hand "Room Stat/Timer" terminal of the boiler... However, getting to these terminals requires disturbing the room sealing of the boiler - a job...

Can you post a picture of the PC with the case removed (i.e. a pic of the motherboard)? We should be able to see if there's enough room for a card, and check there is an appropriate slot. The specs I've seen suggest you may have a free PCI Express X1 slot.

Personally, as above, I'd get a PCIe to USB3 card, (low profile to match your slim case), and stick with the original plan of an external WD Elements drive. Something like... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pvczool-Profile-Express-Expansion-Operating-as-shown/dp/B0DCYWLVNJ It saves messing around...

Ok, you're correct, I haven't looked in the appendix for a while, but this is the only mention (in the edition I have)... As inspection and testing is now based on a risk assessed approach, it's still arguable that this isn't high risk, especially in the OPs case of two, 2 core flat cables...

Agreed, as long as the wiring was properly secured in the plugs terminals and the cable grip was adequate, I wouldn't fail it on a PAT. And I don't believe I have seen any PAT guidance that has suggested otherwise?

Have you swapped the wheels around, just to rule them out?

Surprised I didn't see you there! (ChatGPT was having a bad day! :) )