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Strange it doesn't give an error code. However, you need to check it's taking in cold water when on the drying cycle. No heat or fan if the valve doesn't open Another common problem is the drying ntc in the condenser hose.

There are 3 different versions of that model. We need the product number (starts with a 9) to get the exact model. I'll have a guess at yours, the control panel differs on the models. Do you have a digital display on yours? If so, you should be getting an error displayed. If not, you'll...

Call out the manufacturer, Indesit, if it's a coin or something that shouldn't be in the machine it will be a chargeable call.

Model is etched along the top edge of the door. In general, it shouldn't flood like that. Unless it's a really old machine it should shut the water supply off and pump out the machine long before it overflows the base. Once I've got the model number I'll be able to check what should happen.

If it's intermittent, I'd suspect the door lock.

Fan oven circular element has blown. Check for continuity on the element. Replace if open circuit.

Had a look at the parts list and for some reason it's called a screw, nuts if you ask me. Anyways, part number is SYS020. All you need do is find a supplier.

Yep, Neff is a Bosch in a skirt. Always worth the few extra quid for the quality appliance................... and the 5 year warranty

Seems we agree. I've already gently pushed toward the Siemens (Bosch in a posh frock). John Lewis own brand tends to be Electrolux, which isn't so good. Don't forget, probably an integrated appliance so limited choice.

10 Pounds??? How many times have you paid him? Perhaps enough to get a real engineer out to it? Never mind. What's the make and model? What happens and are there any error codes/flashing lights?

Why on earth would you want to turn a washing machine upside down? I don't know why this idea started on here but you won't find any engineer (or at least one that knows about machines) doing this. If you do, you'll probably do some damage to it. However, to your problem. UNPLUG the...

Hmmm, decisions, decisions, decisions. Shall I have a Siemens (recognised make with good reputation) with 5 year warranty or a Gorenje with a 2 year warranty. (Aren't they Slovenian?) Some Gorenje stuff is pretty well OK, they're more budget range than Siemens. Can't you go and check both...

I'll have to dig a bit deeper on this. According to Diamond H your regulator doesn't have S1 and S2 and the charts I have don't mention them. Edit. I've had another look at Diamond H and from their diagrams I reckon if you put a link wire from P1 to 4 and one side of the pilot light to P2...

New regulator should have P1, P2, 2, 4 and 4a. P1 on the old to P1 on the new. Live feed. P2 on the old to 4a on the new. Neutral. 2 on the old to 2 on the new. Load S on the old to P2 on the new. Pilot. You should have a link wire from P1 to 4 on the new regulator. According to the...

Not really enough information to go on. Why did you have to change the pcb? What are the sequence of events prior to changing and what happens now? Servis (Antonio Merloni, brother of Vitorio who owns Indesit) produce bottom end machines. Pretty poor quality and reliability. Common problem...

Impedance seems a bit low to me. Unfortunately it's not a cheap item so not really on the "try it and see" list.

Wired incorrectly. I'll look up the wiring for it on Tuesday when I go back to work.

Silicone is a nightmare to remove. I've seen too many broken hob tops over the years. It got so bad we were told to refuse to touch the hob and the customer had to get it out for repair. Use the proper stuff or as Fidom suggests.

User manual from Whirlpool website if you're lucky. You'll need the 85 number though. Fault codes won't be in there. Count the flashes between pauses and do a search on here for Whirlpool and x flashes.

Yes. Phone the service number that came with the machine. It's under warranty. Try fixing it yourself and you have no warranty.