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Thanks. This waste will be running horizontally. Well, apart from the required fall. The side walls of the carcasses are going to have to be cut anyway. It's the back wall of the units that's the problem, it's too close to the wall.

The service void at the back of my new units is 43mm, according to the manufacturers. Correct that, it's 40mm, just measured it. I need to run the waste from the sink behind a couple of units. As it is it looks like I'll have to chase out a bit of plaster, and any clips aren't going to fit in...

Just installed 3 of those clay cavity liners, bridging the cavity from outer skin to inner skin. They are about a foot below the joists of a ground floor kitchen extension. I've lifted the floor here and all looks well. Plenty of spiders webs etc, but no sign of rot/damp apart from the end of...

Thanks. 2 different opinions then! Stuff falling down the cavity and blocking the airbricks doesn't apply. It's a single storey extension, and almost the full width of the wall is a window, and I've got enough access from the inside just to have a quick root around now. The cavity wall...

Thanks. What sort of a mess can rapid set get me into? The rush is that the plasterer needs a floor to work from tomorrow, because we need to paint over the weekend, because the units are coming on Monday.

Just doing some remedial work in a very small kitchen extension. Timber floor and about 18 inches of subfloor space. There are 3 airbricks. Airbrick in the outside skin, and almost matching hole (i.e. one missing brick) on the inside skin. But that means the cavity is open to the inside...

I need to do a quick bit of remedial work tomorrow. A course or two of brickwork then a joist on almost immediately (followed by floor boards). Do the various Rapid Set mortars also achieve full strength (or something like it) once they're dried? And which readily available brand would...

I've realised that what I want is timber floor adhesive, except it's not for a floor, it's for a window board. Does anybody know of a trowel applies adhesive that is available in small quantities? Cheers P.S. original post here: I've got a hardwood windowboard for the kitchen. It's...

I've got a hardwood windowboard for the kitchen. It's going to be going on to a flat plastered cill. In the past in this kitchen we've had problems with silver fish, the little devils. They were living under the tiles, which had be dot and dabbed. I want to fix this window board with no void...

Small flat roof (2.4ms x 1.5ms). It's a kitchen extension. There's some evidence of leaks. Our roofer, who I trust, has had a look. The boards are sound, the joists are sound (only about 15 years old). He's just going to felt over. The ceiling's down, I've put 75mm BallyTherm in between the...

Thanks. The wife thought that might look a bit cob. Turns out Miele make one which fits under a 300 x 600 wall unit, and is 550 m3/h, which is fine. So we'll go with that. The usual Miele price, but I don't mind paying for quality, and it's the thing I want.

Know very little about cooker hoods, but trying to learn fast. It looks like the most powerful are always the chimney type. Thing is I can't vent either behind, or above. but I can to the side. So is there anything to stop me getting one and feeding the 'chimney' into the bottom of a cabinet...

I've dropped the ceiling on a small part of the the kitchen. It's an extension 2.4 by 1.5 ms, the the whole kitchen is a lot bigger than that. While it's down I'll insulate it properly - BallyTherm/Celotex or whatever. It's a flat roof above it. On BallyTherm's site it mentions a Vapor...

Ah, I see you and I are singing from the same hymn sheet. I like the 'the missus wants the minimalist look' comment. My kitchen's very minimalist at the moment. No sink, cooker, fridge or freezer. And not much in the way of ceiling or plaster. Very minimalist. I should get it on the telly.

Well said Ban. A kitchen is a working room. It's ridiculous that having switches accessible looks messy. Next time I take my car to the garage don't expect to see any visible spanners. Having tools on display would look really messy.

As you can see, I've told him I'll find another electrician to continue the work. In terms of it 'looking bad' I'd misunderstood him. I thought he meant that it would look bad because there would be visible cables coming from the CCU. Turns out not. The cables (at least for the oven and hob)...

This is the after effect of this thread: http://www.diynot.com/forums/electrics/load-cable-to-cooker-plastered-in.371487/#2831403 I want the isolators for the hob and oven (which are physically separate and need separate supplies) to be wall mounted, on tiles. The oven will be in an...

I've told him I'll find another electrician to continue the work.

Thanks. Well, he's in the NICEIC, Part P and will issue completion certificates, he says. Came reccomended. I think he's maybe partly wanting to do this an easy way for him. But the kitchen is a complete shell at the moment, and is going to be fully replastered, so theres no problem about...

Can it be? The electrician doing my kitchen wants to install the cooker control units (one for hob, one for oven including 13amp socket for built in microwave) inside cupboards. He says it'll look bad if it's on the tiles. I know what he means, I think. Does the cable from CCU to oven have...