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Brickies will do the job if the money's right. Sometimes people live in. I worked on some 30's Council houses in Moulscoomb, Brighton years ago renewing the outer skin, but they were terraced houses and done one house at a time, and then the gables, so the people stayed in. As yours is only to...

They can be. I've done it on a few jobs. The NHBC will do their best to avoid it if they can get away with a repoint.

It's possible to renew wall ties by fixing through the centre of the face bricks. Is it timber frame or brick/block?

All that can be done without total demolition is to rake out and repoint. A weak mortar isn't a massive issue for it's compressive strength, as many older buildings survive well with much weaker mortars. The main problem is that the surface is more affected by the weather and moisture...

3mm is a bit small for a shadow gap. You normally need at least 10mm.

It's less likely to be timber framed if there's no weep vents at DPC level.

Has it got weep vents at DPC level?

A rule of thumb for a lintel of that size is a minimum of 100mm bearing on each end. Longer lintels need 150mm. However, I've seen plenty of lintels like yours that seen to survive with only a couple of inches each end. Would agree with Alastair though, it's probably worth sticking a longer one...

Cut some out and stick it in a container with brick acid. This will leave you with a sample of the sand.

A 9 inch retaining wall can fail in certain ground conditions. Here's one I priced up about that height in heavy clay and the the ground running up from it. The traffic control made it really expensive.

All the jobs I've worked on like yours have put down compacted hardcore/MOT, then 4 inch slab, then Celotex, then pipes and screed.

When the rain hits the flaunching, there will be a certain amount of rain bounce, some of which will get into the flue. Some will also pool slightly and run into it. It won't be a massive amount, and as with an open chimney pot, when the flues were brickwork and parged a small amount of water...

The infill under an arch is known as a Tympanum. Normally you do a piece of decorative brickwork, like a herring bone panel with rubbed bricks. I wouldn't be rebuilding it with a load of random rubble.

Because he's got no work on this week, and he had the day off from college when they covered lintel failure.

I remember when Thermalite were being pushed in the early 70's, and one of the main points was that you could screw directly into them without plugs. They soon got rid of that advertising point.

Predictive text gets you every time.

Can't see a problem if done in one pour.

To me the concrete looks green enough to bond properly, although I wasn't on site.

Looks like it's fine to me.

They sometimes get knocked on site before they are installed. It's only minor damage.